Hi,
In my experience the critical parts to the full opening of the cowl vent are the two hinges attached to the back of the cover. The cover assembly is designed to pivot on those hinges so a slight movement by the opening lever translates to a large opening at the front of the vent. When my hinges rusted and failed to function properly (in other words the darn things broke!) the entire vent would "prairie dog" or pop up only a fraction (maybe a half inch) of the normal opening distance.
Hopefully the below advice to use penetrating lubricant - especially on the hinges in back - will have you riding in air cooled / air smoothed style.
Good Luck,
Dick
Date: Thu, 15 May 2014 14:54:30 -0500
From: zamagnette at charter.net
To: zmagnette at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Zmagnette] cowl vent
Charlie:
On my car, I found that over time the joints in the linkage
(the designer must have been paid by the link) got rusty and
trying to actuate the lever bent the links. I covered every joint
I could see with penetrating lubricant and straightened and much
of the linkage as I could. After working it slowly, I got my vent
to fully open.
Perkins
On 5/15/2014 1:23 PM, Allen Bachelder wrote:
I'd like an answer to this one too. From bitter
experience, I do know that there are about a million wrong ways to
fit this mechanism together - all of them WRONG! I also believe
the diagram in the SPM is incorrect.
Aaaarrrrrrrrrrrgh!
Allen
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On May 15, 2014, at 2:19 PM, charles durning wrote:
For some reason my cowl vent on my
'58 ZB Chick Magnette will not open. The lever moves what
appears to be a full stroke but the cowl only opens about
1/4 inch. I've looked under the dash to see if I can
understand how it works and see if anything looks bent.
Frankly I'm pereplexed. Perhaps I'm looking in the wrong
place. Anybody have information on how the cowl vent
works?
Charlie Durning
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