From healeys-owner  Sat Jul  1 10:31:42 1995
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From: Rmoment@aol.com
Date: Sat, 1 Jul 1995 10:31:38 -0400
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To: asmith@BayNetworks.COM
Cc: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: SOL Examination Paper 1: ...
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The solonoid has a switch built in at the top of its intrnal bore.  The
resistance is low (about 3 ohms) when the plunger is down (un-energized).
 When th plunger is drawn up from energizing it hits  the switch at the top
of the bore and increases the resistance (to tens of ohms or more -- I can't
give you a value but it won't be infinite and will be noticeably higher than
the low value), which also cuts down on the current.  The reason for all this
is that it takes more energy to get the plunger up into the full magnetic
field, but little energy to hold it there.  If the solonoid is overheating it
is because the switch did not activate.

How do you know your solonoid is operaing correctly?  First, remove it from
the overdrive by the two screws.  Pull the case up and then remove the
plunger by unhooking from the operating lever forked end.  put the plunger
into the case bore and measure the resistance between the wire and the case
as you push the plunger up into the bore.  At the very end you should see the
effect of the internal switch operating.  If you don't see a change you'll
need to get a new solonoid (about $100 or so).

If all is OK electrically, replace the plunger onto the operating lever and
then the body onto the O'dr.  Now you need to make the adjustment correct.

The book tells about putting a 3/16" drill through the hole in the operating
lever on the passenger side of the O'dr and lining it up with a similar hole
int he case.  THe lever will be moved about 1/4" over to line up.  This sets
the rod theat pushes up on the ball valve so that this valve just opens.  You
can observe the action by removing the check falve cap and looking into the
bore -- be sure not to lose the spring and plunger that fit under tha cap
screw!!!

You should have first losened the calmping bolt on the operating lever side
that the solonoid works.  With the 3/16" bit lining up the holes press the
plunger up into the solonoid all the way.  You can check with an ohm meter
that the electrical switch is operating.  Now tighten the lever arm clamping
bolt.

Remove the 3/16" drill. Go back over to the solonoid and push the plunger
(not the actuating arm!!) up all the way.  You should find that the actuating
arm has a slight bit of free room to move up even further than the plunger
pulls it, indicating that it is not restricting the plunger from its full
stroke (and thus operatiing the internal switch).

NOW you can reconnect the solonoid wire.  Good luck!