Thoughts on Restoring a Morgan
Rebuilding the Front End
©By: John T. Blair (WA4OHZ)
1133 Chatmoss Dr., Va. Beach, Va. 23464; (757) 495-8229
Last update: 03/27/97
Rebuilding the front end of a Morgan is some trouble but not
impossible. Before you start, be sure you have the required parts on
hand:
(Note: Numbers preceded by a "#" refer to numbered items in
the exploded view diagram.)
- New bronze Kingpin bushings - #20 - 2 required per side,
- New neoprene bushings for the King pin dust cover - #17
which is located inside the upper springs - 1 required per
side. (Note: I've been told by some of the parts suppliers
that these are not required.)
- New tie rod ends may also be needed.
- If you are planning on replacing the main springs - #13, be
sure you have the correct springs for the car. The 4/4 use a
taller less stiff spring than the +4's (free standing height
14 1/4" Vs 13"). The lower "rebound" springs - #14 are
supposedly the same for all the cars.
Several of the Morgan parts suppliers can provide the bronze
bushings. The estimate I got (in May 1989) for them was $20
each ($80 for all 4). They are 2.250" long, 1" inside diameter (ID),
and approximately 1.230" outside diameter (OD). I found a
commercial bushing available for $6.50 each. These are
2.5" long by 1" ID by 1.250" OD from American Bearing - (Part #
CB-1630-22.
These bushings are supposed to be a force fit into the axle
assembly - #1, and will have to be machined to fit. Once these
bushings are pressed into position, they will have to be line
bored to fit you kingpins. You will have to find a machine shop
to do this work for you.
I checked with one supplier for the neoprene bushings but they
didn't have any. This brought about a search of hose and rubber
suppliers in my area. One distributor had some 1-7/16" OD hose.
The rubber bushings are 1-1/2" long. I suggest purchasing at
least 1 foot. This allows for several mistakes.
Before up you start to disassemble the front suspension, get a
2 foot length of 1/4" threaded rod and 6 nuts. Cut the rod into two
lengths about 1 foot long. This will be used to "jack" down the lower
king pin plate - #18, and relieve the energy stored in the springs.
Lets get started
Jack up the front of the car and place jackstands under each side
of the car. Remove the front wheels. Working on one side of the
car at a time, remove the bolts holding the damper blade - #22 and
the blade block - #24 to the chassis. Remove the bolt on the king pin
plate that attaches to the strut - #29, and loosen the bolt that attaches
the strut to the chassis. Now the strut can be swung out of the way.
Replace one of the king pin plate bolts with one of the pieces of
threaded rod. Screw 2 nuts on the top of the rod and jam them
together. Screw another nut on from the bottom of the rod, until it just
touches the lower plate - #18. Repeat this process with the other bolt
and nut on the lower plate. Now remove the king pin oil line from the
upper king pin bolt - #16.
Back off the king pin bolt -#16, but do not remove it completely.
Alternating between each of the 2 nuts (on the bottom of the king
pin plate), unscrew each nut a couple of turns. Repeat this until the
king pin bolt can be lifted out. However, don't remove the king pin
bolt as it will help prevent the king pin assembly from slipping and
shooting the main spring out. Continue unscrewing the 2 lower bolts
until the king pin assembly is basically free. When you are ready to
pull the upper spring, remove the king pin bolt. After the king pin
is lowered, there is still some energy stored in the springs. I
suggest placing a pillow on top of the upper spring just before
pulling it off. This will limit any damage if the spring gets away
from you.
To remove the old bushings from the stub axle will require a
puller. For some of them I was able to us a hook on a slide hammer.
Some may have to be pressed out, others may have to be cut out. (I
had to use all three methods).
Once the old bushings are removed, the diameter of the tube
should be measured. I machined the new bushings to the inside
diameter (of the tube) plus 2/1000 of an inch to make the bushings a
"force fit" and installed each one.
After all the bushings are installed, they must be reamed to
mate with the respective king pins.
If you are going to replace the rubber dust cover, ensure
the bottom of the metal dust cover (top hat) - #17 is round. Place
it on a mandrel and tap it gently with a hammer. Next remove
the "rubber" (neoprene) bushings and clean the inside of the
tube with sand paper. Insert the bushing into the tube, and
cut the inside to fit on the king pins. Remove the bushing
and coat the inside of the tube with Vaseline or oil. Insert the
"rubber" bushing from the bottom of the tube until the bottom
of the bushing is about 1/4" into the tube. Now coat the inside
of the "rubber" bushing with Vaseline or oil to allow the king
pin to slide in easily.
Safety tip:
What happens if either the upper or lower suspension
tube were to break while you were driving the car? Here's an idea
that I heard of after I finished rebuilding my front end.
While the King Pins are out, place a new (smaller) pipe inside
both the upper and lower horizontal tubes of the front subframe. If
the outer tube were to break, the inner should hold the suspension
together until you get stopped. The inner tubes can be held in place
to keep it from rattling around, in a couple of ways.
- Drill a small hole through from the top of the outer tube all
the way through the inner tube and the bottom tube. A small screw
can be inserted and nuts put on the screw to hold the inner tube in
place.
- Shim the inner tube so that it is floating inside the outer tube. Us
some "Great Stuff" (or calk) and squirt it between the
two tubes.
Putting it back together
It is now time to reinstall the King pins, springs, and stub
axle. During the process I strongly suggest that at least two people
perform the work. Coat the king pin with oil and insert it (from the
bottom) into the lower support. Next slide the lower spring over the
king pin and install the stub axle. Insert the top hat in the upper
spring and slide the spring over the king pin. Pull the center of
the spring out, away from the car, and press the top of the spring
down and under the upper spring support. (Be very careful as the
spring will want to fly out) While holding the spring, tap the top
under the support with a hammer and insert the upper kingpin bolt.
This will help keep the spring from sliding out of place. Reinsert
the 2 pieces of threaded rod and screw the bottom 2 nuts up. This
will be used to jack the hub assembly back up into position. As the
hub raises the spring will straighten. Watch as the axle assembly
slide into the "top hat". There is very little clearance here. Once
the lower plate is jacked up enough to insert the upper kingpin bolt,
do so. This can be use to pull the kingpin the rest of the way up.
Now the long rods can be replaced with the original bolts.
Tighten the upper kingpin bolt, reattach the king pin oil line,
the install the blade dampener guides on the chassis, drag link, and
shock absorber.
Enjoy your Morgan
John
Exploded view of the front end
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