Re: RE: Instrument Rebuild Recommendations

From: Gary Winblad (winbladg(at)apps5.credence.com)
Date: Wed Nov 01 1995 - 11:19:47 CST


> To take off the needle, I learned the hard way by damaging one of the

I've had great success by just grabbing hold of that sucker (the needle)
and pulling straight out, no need to reach in the light hole.
Also, the stop at 0Mph is really a spring, so you don't have to be too
carefull. To get the correct reading when putting the needle back,
I put the needle on pointing to a small white dot you will find just
below 0, around -10Mph as I recall... now push straight in the stop
with a small knife blade while you push the needle past. This pre-load
won't hurt the spring and gives pretty accurate readings. To get better
readings, I have left the glass off, driven a known speed (by the tach)
and re-installed the needle at that speed...

Also, that end-float adjustment is the solution to alot of problems,
it is critical! I stick a small screwdriver in the cable hole and
while rapidly spinning it, you get a feel for how the needle operation
is.. you need to put the needle on, but only lightly to do this. It
has been suggested the kerosene is a good lube for the bearings.. I
know SAE30 is not!, I used WD-40 last time.

I never disassemble the trip counter shaft, there is a small roll-pin
that attaches the black plastic shaft, remove it and the shaft and you
can just get the instrument out of the case before disassembly, then
it just un-screws.

I also never bend the chrome ring, just hang on and twist.
Be sure to repaint the needle and clean the glass and it will be like
new!

Gary Winblad '64 Tiger '66 SV Alger
San Jose



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