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To: alpines(at)autox.team.net
From: "Bert Clewits" <nyclewit(at)nyhp03.serigate.philips.nl>
Subject: fast Imps and Alpine tops manifolds and caliper bolts
Cc:
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Chris wrote:
>Talking to Peter Harper last week, he told me he was given the task of testing
>out a Hillman Imp Rootes had converted to Fuel Injection, he was given it to run
>around in for several months, states he used to cause havoc on the motorways,
>waited for some high powered car to come past at speed, he waited until they
>were some distance in front then put his foot down, overtook the car like a
>bullet and left sufficient turbulence to cause a panic attack. The Imp developed
>130 bhp in standard form? The Rapier that had been converted went like a dream,
>and could not believe it was not put into production. The system was being
>developed by Tecalemite will be making some enquiries to see if the still exist.
Hmm.. 130 Bhp Those Imps are great aren't they !!
Once I've seen an Imp engine of 1260cc with 145 brake horse power at Malcolm Anderson
Imp Specialist at High Wycombe UK.
He uses that one in a light weight Clan Crusader (Imp based kit car) or in his
Racing Hillman Imp Californian winning the 1300c class competing with modern cars
like Fords Fiesta's, XR2's and Peugeots 205.
Another guy in The Imp Club has modified his 998CC Imp with a Volvo turbo unit and
injection system he claims to be just as fast as a Sunbeam Lotus 2.2 liter !
He made the rust free steel combined inlet/exhaust manifold up himself !
He revs the little engine over 11.000 rpm !
I suppose Rootes didn't want to make the Imp too fast so they actually detuned
the engine using smaller valves, carb, angled inlet manifold etc.
Another thing for your manifolds:
I polish rusty exhaust manifolds with the black stove polish that works very well
it's heat resistant and stops it from rusting and it looks good !
try it!
The only disadvantage: you get real black fingers, but you're all used to that
aren't you !
Another thing:
As I have to replace the canvas of my softtop which is single layer old and torn
I'm considering a double layer softtop.
Does anyone of you have a double layer softtop made and how does it fit back in the
box is there enough room for it anyway ?
On my present one I got some ugly wide canvas water channels stitched on the top side
above the door windows and on the bottom side behind the doors.
Do your softtops have the same (looking at photos I don't see any) ?
And how are they fitted at the rear side(s) do they have buttons with which they are
held down to the bodywork and how many of them are there ?
Your help is greatly appreciated,
Bert (restoring an Alpine IV GT, with softtop, and also(already) proud of it !)
P.S. Yes I turn the bolt the right way and maybe I can use a Pnuematic tool to undo
the caliper bolt or impact wrench,
Use more WD-40 or any other penetrating oil maybe cola works (what would be better
Coca Cola or Pesi Cola !!??).
Heating the caliper or the bolt, it's all steel, I suppose I got to heat the bolt
to have it expanding in the axial direction reducing the force on the threads.
The brake seals have to be replaced anyway so if they melt so what !
Thank you all !
This archive was generated by hypermail 2b30 : Tue Sep 05 2000 - 09:21:07 CDT