Terry, here is that message I received from Steve Finberg:
The Clear Hooter horns have a mechanical contact which inturupts the
current allowing it to buz .. very much like a mechanical house bell.
As the horn hoots the contact will arc and wear away. If you are lucky
it has just gotten a layer of oxside on it or some crud in the gap.
Opening it up and dressing ( cleaning and smothing) the contact may cure it.
But first try this .. Try adjusting it to make full contact (full CW).
If i
t touches the horn shoud draw lots of current. If there is a layer of
corrosi
on it won't. But by cycling the adjustment back and forth you might losen
enough of the crud to get it to work. Then back off the contact
till the horn draws the rated current. ( <3.5 A)
If you have to open it up and clean / replace the contact...
I don't think there are replacement parts available.. however an old dime .
..
the real silver kind.. makes good contact material. When you solder it down
be carefull to keep the solder off the contact surfaces. Solder it in place
then file the surface to the correct shape.
I have come across a few Clear Hooters which wouldn't work but have not
yet attempted any surgury as I seemed to have enough working ones. :-)
Most Alpines came with two, when they stoped working usually some aftermarke
t
replacement was squezed in. Rarely was an adjustment attempted .. thus
leaving plenty of adjustment range for us to play with.
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