In a message dated 96-08-14 16:37:33 EDT, TEdlund writes:
<< >Does the pressure come up gradually from the start, or does it
>sit there with no pressure at all for some time before suddenly
>jumping up to 50 lbs? If it suddenly comes up, how many seconds
>after starting does it take?
>>>>>>>>>>No pressure at all for 4-6 seconds, then it jumps to 50 psi.
>Are the oil cooler hoses on your Series V routed correctly (one
>over the top of the valve cover)? I've heard (and it may be
>rumor) that oil pressure sometimes takes longer to come up if
>both hoses are routed side-by-side through the horn opening.
>>>>>>>Correctly? Both are routed through the horn opening. I thought that
was correct. Does re-routing over the valve cover require a longer hose?
Which hose? I suspect it would be the feed hose (aft hose on the oil cooler
adapter block). Just out of curiosity, what would be the difference if the
hoses were reversed at the adapter block?
THE hose from the rearmost fitting on the oil cooler adapter block goes over
the top. Don't know if it needs a longer (or shorter) hose. If the hose is
original, it should fit. Be sure to use clamps to avoid chafing the hose on
the valve cover stud and the left horn opening. My hose started leaking
badly this Monday on a return trip from Portland to Seattle (chafed on the
valve cover stud) Much fun. There is NOTHING that duct tape can't fix.
I've thought of testing the oil pressure theory by running my own hoses thru
the horn opening, but mainly just for looks (the hose obscures the "S" on the
valve cover).
>The oil pump must be also be considered suspect, especially if
>the pressure is only gradually rising from the start.
>>>>>>>>The pump was installed new at the time of rebuild.
I FOUND the other posting (re: excessive oil pump lobe gap contributing to
premature leakdown) VERY interesting. Might still be applicable. Or perhaps
someone tried to adapt a 1592 pump? Your 4-6 response time makes it sound
like the pump is temporarily "unprimed," much like the first time you start
the car after an oil change. There's plenty of oil there, but the pump just
isn't grabbing it.
>In my experience, oil pressure relief valves normally stick open
>only after warming up, but return to normal when turned off, so
>the next startup shouldn't be affected. Its worth the time to
>stick another one in just to see if there's any difference. ****Does
>the pressure ever fluctuate at steady RPM's?*****
>>>>>>>I looked at my rebuild bill and I was charged for a new "pressure
relief valve". When I looked up the valve in SS catalog they don't list one
for my serial number (B395009965). Instead they recommend that I purchase a
later series filter base with the valve already installed (they also sell
just the valve but only for the later series filter base).
AFTER trying five different original style valves (they ALL stuck), I finally
installed one of Rick's later (Arrow Range) pressure relief valves and base.
A good investment.
BTW, original numbered valves haven't been generally available for about five
years. I wonder where your rebuilder got his.
>>>>>>>This makes me wonder if I have a later series valve in an early series
base? If so, can this be my problem? >>
POSSIBLY part of the problem, given that your oil pressure is more in line
with the book specs for a new 1494 and 1592 engine, but the pressure should
come on immediately regardless of the valve.
I've read a 1965-66? Rootes Service Bulletin announcing a change in relief
valves. They're the same size diameter, though. Rick's "new" ones fit the
Arrow Range (fastback Alpine GT's, etc) and are substantially thicker with
different thread location.
Dick Sanders
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