In a message dated 96-09-25 10:48:57 EDT, tjhiggin(at)alpine.b17a.ingr.com (T.J.
Higgins) writes:
>> My name is Lauri Lehtinen, and I live in Helsinki, Finland. I have an
>> Alpine mk IV, one of approximately 30 -50 Alpines in Finland.
>>
>> My Alpines' 1600 cc engine has lost its best edge, and I think I must
build
>> a new one on the base of 1725 cc unit from an Alpine/Hunter of 70's. I
have
>> few questions which are difficult to solve only with literature.
>>
>> Alpines 1600 unit has dural pushrods, but later unit has steel rods. Are
>> there any tips for conversion from other marques' alloy rods, or is it
best
>> to make new ones using raw dural tube or rod? (I want to keep the original
>> 1600 engine complete).
>>
>> In Alpine GTs of 70's the engine was tilted slightly and the oil pan is
>> not symmetric. Is it possible to use it or is it better to seek a sump
>from Hillman Minx etc.?
>>
>> I'd like to have an overdrive box, since driving 1 to 2 hours with 5200
rpm
>> breaks my heart. And maybe the engine too. Rootes cars with o/d are very
>> rare in Finland, though same overdrives were widely used in Volvo Amazons.
>> Still I am quite sure it is easiest to order a new box, o/d-unit,
>> driveshaft and electrical equipment from England. Also the ratio of std.
>> rear axel differs from ratio used with overdrive; it should be changed? Do
>> other readers agree?
>>
>> If I tune the engine up (100-130 bhp), is it then wise to use
traction-bars
>> at rear? I have seen such only in a Tiger, does someone manufacture bars
>> for Alpines? And has anyone tried to use composite rear springs?
>>
>> Has anyone used either turbo or mechanical supercharger in a 1725 unit?
>> Does it cause a sudden emission of big, hot metal particles through
bonnet?
>>
>> If there has been discussion about these technical points, please inform
>> me when it has happened. I pick up /download messages from the archieves.
>>
>> Thank you (and welcome to Finland next summer)
>> lauri(at)lorenzo.pp.fi
I don't know of anyone who's had problems with the steel pushrods in the
Alpine GT's.
If you want originals, there are undoubtedly many Alpiners out here who have
extras.
Is the oil pan aluminum? I think only the rear of the pan is asymetric. In
fact I've always wondered why the bottom, finned part of the pan was not
changed for the 10% slant. I used one for several years on my Series V.
Without a Series V oil cooler, your 1725 will need the extra cooling from
the pan, especially if you tune it up. On the Rapier H120's (a 110 hp Alpine
GT derivitive) test cars without oil coolers or aluminum pans suffered from
boiling oil at highway speeds.
I'm not sure you can just "order one" from England. John Roseby of the
Alpine Club in England, who also rebuilds OD's as a business, says they're
very rare.
If you're turning 5200 rpm's, you're either going very fast or you already
have the 4.22:1 gears ratio common to OD cars. If so, a switch to 3.89's
might make highway driving more tolerable. The Alpine GT's came with 3.89's
which you can use in your Series IV, provided you exchange the input yoke on
the differential (its longer on the Alpine GT). Depending on your desired
top end highway cruising speed, you may want to have the 3.89's anyway, even
if acceleration suffers slightly.
I've never heard of a Rootes-powered car needing traction bars. If you get
some wheel hop (which is unlikely), add an extra leaf spring.
A turbocharger on a 1725cc? A fellow near here tried one about twenty years
ago. It didn't improve performance enough for him so he bought a Tiger.
The stock compression ratio of 9.2:1 might be a bit high for turbocharging.
Dick Sanders
Seattle
P.S. I know of a fellow in Vancouver, British Columbia, Canada who has a
non-synchro Series IV OD for sale (no electricals included). The last I
heard the price was around $400-500 (US). I have no idea what it would cost
to ship it to Finland. If interested, mail me and I'll send his telephone
number.
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