Now this sounds like the perfect opportunity for a nitrious Kit
!!!. A little squirt and 230HP on demand. Don't hold the button too
long though !! Other wise its "Melticus Pistonis O'Pletius".
Rich
> ----------
> From: Jarrid Gross (Yorba Linda, CA)[SMTP:GROSS(at)UNIT.COM]
> Sent: Wednesday, April 02, 1997 1:22 PM
> To: 'alpine clan'
> Subject: Alpine Motor Mods
>
> Hey Alpines,
>
>
> Any one out there using chevy rods in an alpine motor?
> There is of course a write up on the chevy rods, but is any one
> actually
> doing this>
>
>
>
>
> I am in the process of building a (full-race) motor for my Alpine,
> and I thought I would share some of my findings to some of you
> gear heads out there.
>
> For those of you not too interested in hipo engine mods, read no
> further.
>
>
> First of all, I will be using chevy con rods.
> Specifically, I have a set of Carrillo forged rods from a formula 5000
> engine.
> These rods are 6.0 inches, which is .375 longer than stock.
> Also the rods have 7/16 doweled cap screws.
>
> Over all, the rods and cap screws wiegh the same as the OEM rods.
>
> The rods are so big on the big ends that the piston pins must be
> installed
> from the bottom side of the motor (This has been checked to be
> possible).
>
>
>
>
> The pistons will be forged alluminum, and of course is set around the
> length of the con rods.
> The pistons are much shorter than stock, and will weigh about 2/3s
> that
> of OEM pistons.
> The piston pins will be standard SB chevy.
>
>
>
> The crank will be a standard 1725 crank that is ground down to the
> 2.000
> inch
> journal size for the SB rod bearings.
>
> Also, I believe I will end up stroking the crank to get even more
> displacement.
>
>
>
> The head will be ported, and the before, during and after flow data
> will be
> published, and made available to you all, so that we may all know what
> porting methods are most beneficial/practical.
>
>
>
> The compression ratio will be about 11/1, and the head bolts will be
> replaced
> with ARP studs to allow for a higher head torque spec, and reduce
> bouts
> with
> headus gasketus blowiticus.
>
>
> The whole rotaing mass will be balanced as a unit.
>
>
>
> Based on the mechanicals going into the engine, it would appear that
> there will
> no longer be a real red-line on the motor, as the head will stop
> flowing
> long before the bottom end wants to fail.
>
>
> It appears possible to make a 160BHP engine using the above
> configuration
> and a good road race camshaft.
>
>
>
> Here are some figures for you all to ponder.
>
> Bore Stroke Displacement
> STD 3.210 3.250 1724cc
> BORE1 3.247 3.250 1764cc
> STROKE1 3.247 3.300 1791cc
> STROKE2 3.247 3.350 1818cc
> BIGBORE 3.390 3.250 1922cc
> BIGBORE+STRK 3.390 3.350 1982cc
>
>
> The big bore info is based upon 86.1 mm pistons and sleaves being used
> in your engine per SAOC newsletter.
>
>
>
>
> Anyone out there have some cool mods for these motors, or
> perhaps better ways of doing it?
>
>
> Jarrid Gross
>
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