Just don't do what my DPO did, whatever that was. When I started
stripping down the motor I found the thrust washers lying in the sump
and a very sorry looking crankshaft and block. I'm still at a loss to
explain how he managed that.
Russell
jarrid_gross(at)juno.com wrote:
>
> If the motor has good oil pressure and compression, dont rebuild it.
>
> I dont think that there is a definative test here for the thrust washer
> prob.
> Many of us have seen the problem just go away after a quality rebuild.
> The rest is probably well seasoned folklore.
>
> Some of the time, worn thrust washers will show a marked reduction in oil
> pressure when the clutch is pressed, but the drop in RPM probably has
> more to
> do with the wear state of the TO bearing, and the type of clutch than
> anything else.
>
> The TO bearings can be worn clear down to the metal backing without
> making
> a noise. The friction that the iron carrier imparts on the clutch is
> somewhat higher
> than that of the graphite ring, so this is also a possibility.
>
> Knowing when the clutch should be pressed, and for how long to press it
> is really
> important toward making the carbon TO bearing, and the thrust washers
> last a long
> time. Clutching is the only significant force that the the thrust
> washers ever see
> "anyone out there with an automatic have a thrust washer failure?".
>
> You should NEVER start an alpine with the clutch pushed in.
> The engine has NO oil pressure, so the crank is hard up against the
> thrust washers,
> and there is definately metal to metal.
>
> The good news is that the thrust washers can be checked and replaced
> without
> pulling the engine of even the crank from the car.
>
> The whole affair is probably a six pack job, so buy 9 just in case.
>
> You will have to drop the sump, pull the center main cap, then use a
> feeler
> gauge to measure the end float of the crank. You will have to push the
> clutch to
> be certain that the crank is butted against the thrust washer on the
> tranny side of
> the engine. Measure the end float between the crank and the thrust
> washer
> toward the front of the engine.
>
> If the end float is greater than .004 inches, you ought to replace them.
>
> After the end float has been measured, slide "rotate" the old thrust
> washers out
> of the crescent recesses in the engine block. Measure each one for
> refference.
> New thrust washers are available with .005 and .010 oversize. You can
> also
> mix your warn pieces with new pieces or you can machine down the
> backsides
> of the new washers to get that "just right" fit.
>
> The correct end float wil be .002 to .004 inch.
>
> Remmember that the copper/grooved sides go against the crank, and the
> white
> metalic side goes against the block.
>
> Later,
>
> Jarrid Gross.
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