I don't believe there is a special tool. You'll have to remove the
rocker assembly and the oil feed line (I think its easier to remove it
from the bottom fitting). The pushrods should stay in the block, they
just mixed up if you take them out. It's always a good idea to re-adjust
the valves when you re-torque the head. Remember the specs are for the
engine HOT.
Good luck.
siegfried wrote:
>
> I've decided to retorque the cylinder head bolts on my series V and have
> the following set of stupid questions: Do I have to remove the rocker
> arm assembly or is there really a special tool to allow me to retorque?
> If I do have to remove the assembly, can I remove it whole - without
> "unattaching" the pushrod (are they attached there?) from the rocker
> arms (and in the process removing the pushrods from the block?). Do I
> have to readjust the valves afterwards? What about the oil feed line?
>
> The engine is running fine so I'd prefer to avoid having to remove the
> rocker arm assembly and readjusting the valves.
>
> Thanks in advance:
>
> Siegfried
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Reply-To: Sergio Dimarmo <wanderer(at)sure.net>
Are your oil cooler lines routed correctly? There is a sevice bulletin
that shows you how they should be routed using a special set of mounting
brackets. Here's the URL:
http://www.team.net/www/rootes/rsb/66_05
What kind of pancake adapter are you talking about?
John Souders wrote:
>
> I recently fitted an oil cooler to my Series IV using a pancake
> adaptor. Now when I change the oil (and filter) I find that after
> starting the engine the pump appears to have lost its prime. In fact
> the only way I can get oil pressure again is to remove the filter and
> force oil into the feed side to the filter thereby forcing oil into the
> pump. This has happened twice.
>
> Never saw this before the cooler was fitted.
>
> And I just did an oil change on a Series V, (factory cooler) and found
> the same problem.
>
> Wassup????
>
> Thanks
>
> John
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