I'm not sure I understand your problem. You had oil pressure showing
before the oil change but none after? Or the previous owner merely
told you that there was good oil pressure? Have you verified that
your oil pressure guage is working properly? Your pressure could be
fine and it's just a guage problem. A reputable repair shop can check
your pressure using an external guage. The fact that you've got a dry
oil filter indicates the problem is elsewhere.
There was a problem with the original oil pressure relief valves in
Series 5 Alpines. The factory sent out a bulletin saying the Series 4
valve should be used. See http://www.team.net/www/rootes/rsb/66_05.html,
http://www.team.net/www/rootes/rsb/66_06.html, and
http://www.team.net/www/rootes/sunbeam/alpine/mk1-5/techtips/prvalve.html
for more info on Alpine oil pressure problems.
I'm taking the liberty of forwarding your message to the Alpines
mailing list (alpines(at)autox.team.net). To join the Alpines list,
send a "subscribe alpines" message to majordomo(at)autox.team.net.
Can anyone else offer any suggestions to Dan's problem of no oil
pressure? Please reply directly to Dan at fallon(at)sprynet.com.
-- T.J. Higgins tjhiggin(at)ingr.com Huntsville, ALdan evans writes: > I've a 67'mk5. I don't know if it was imported via Aloha motors or any > other local dealer at that time, or it could have been shipped by the > owner. The car has a 4 owner history with a record of upgrades and > good maint. Dependable "Runner" with one touch ignition, quick tic to > 40 psi on start, 20 at idle (950rpm), 40 at 55 mph (4200rpm). > "I noted my tach is out of calibration." Tight carbs,smooth and quick > acceleration, stays cool, "good for north shore grid lock". > No problems, changed oil/filter. Did not start the car till the next am. > Got instant ignite, smooth run but "0" oil psi. Shutdown,pulled filter > "it matched old one", but was DRY!, another 30 sec showed no psi. shut > down,still dry. (4 qts of clean oil and no flow!!!) > Primed with 30cc of oil down to the crank,idled a third time. zip!!!!!! > Upon suggestion dropped the pan and pulled the pump......(observing the > correct timing settings). pump seems to work by hand in a pail of oil, > (but no load). couldn't spend any more time with it.................... > I 'm thinking at this point to check the pump drive pin, then pull the > oil filter/cooler blocks and clean and check. have run the car 500 miles > with the oil cooler bypassed with plugs in the adaptor block. Again I've > had no problems.The pan had a lot of sludge in the bottom, but no metal. > Need some feed back.. I don't think I need a re bulid, 66,000 > original.. > I'm told the pin could be sheared,and still seem solid by hand, but slip > under load. The valves in the adaptor blocks could be worn.............. > I will remove cooler block until I find 1/2" BPS hose fittings to renew > the oil cooler hoses... If the pin is not sheared, I'll clean the blocks > and then try to start the engine. If it's still "0". I'll be at a loss.. > > 67' white to black Alpine, hardtop, non od, koni shocks(in 90's?), new > joints/ends(97"), alt upgrade(97"), 3 core rad, 7 speaker sound system > 600 watts (new). NO RUST. Clean new paint,runs me all over oahu, easy > rider. Want to keep,will do .030 overbore, and try to find holley high > performer cam, renew clutch/plate/bearing, and seal,,, in time........ > > I realize after 20 years of owning cars that i've something rare and > special. it's still got a lot of life in it, and I want to keep it > movin' on.. Mahalo, fallon(at)sprynet.com >
This archive was generated by hypermail 2b30 : Tue Sep 05 2000 - 09:47:12 CDT