Scott,
> THANK YOU THANK YOU! You have just described the EXACT operation I've
> been putting off for some time, for fear of pulling the engine. My
only
> question is how did you work around the brake master cylinder?
It was tight, but "doable." Probably the hardest part was the
upper-rear bolt that holds the steering box to the frame. It's hard to
get at the head of the bolt, and it uses a noncaptive nut inside the
bracket that's welded to the frame. Then, though mine came off easily,
I know those pitman arms can be a real pain.
> I too bought those rubber bushings from SS, and now I guess will
have to look
> for a good used rack? Or could a machine shop somehow separate the
metal
> from the rubber?
I don't really know if the rubber/metal and all-rubber bushings are
related to model configuration or what, but if you have the all-rubber
type in there now, you won't have a problem. In either case, the rubber
part will come out easily; its the metal outside part of the
rubber/metal bushing that's pressed into the eyes at the ends of the
tube that's the problem. It's a real thin piece, and you'd need a press
and just the right size tools to press 'em out. I have a press, but
couldn't come up with the right combination of pressing and holding
fixtures. Any machine shop could probably do it for you, but not at
7:30 on a Thursday evening!
And, bufore you jump in, here's what Bill Lewis said in a private post:
> I replaced my cross tube and bushings a few years back. I had
the
> dickens of a time trying to get the cross tube loose. I finally took
the
> car to a local suspension shop and for $15 they put a chatter gun to
the
> cross tube and vibrated it loose in about 5 min. After having nearly
gone
> through what you did, that $15 was the best $$$ I ever spent.
You got a compressor and a chatter gun?
Ramon
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