Perhaps I have mixed up your mind accidently but I did read a reply from
you re. steering box leaks...in which you said the I had misunderstood the
source of the leak and that it was NOT coming from the Pitman arm shaft
seal at the bottom of the steering box.
You said it came from the end of the box (the forwardmost part of the box).
I ask you to look at parts catalog steering section, page RA, on which the
SV box is shown.
No. 5 is the box itself and the no.7 is the inner column/with cam.
This no.7 goes down into the box and butts against the ball bearings
located at the front wall of the box. There is a pressed in cap sort of
like a engine core plug which seals the end of the box where these bearing
is. This cap is not intended to be remove and should be oil tight.
Of course, if for some reason it leaks, then a repair would be needed which
might involve simply degreasing that area and sealing with blue-glue. The
is zero internal pressure inside the box so oil is not under pressure at
any time.
For this reason, the upper or top of the box has no actual oil seal.
Now.....my original message a few days ago told how to remove the pitman
arm and get at the oil seal above it on the splined shaft which hangs down
out the bottom of the box.
Seems like you did not get this quite clear and your reply talks of other things.
Look at the picture in the parts cat. or even in the WSM and what the
catalog calls No. 24 "rocker" shaft is what the rest of the world calls a
pitman shaft. The catalog part No.27 "drop-arm" is elsewhere called a
Pitman arm.
The little oil seal on the shaft (no.25) is the thing which is allowing oil
to run down the shaft and rip on the floor...OK? The nut No.29 is the one
needing 75 ft/lbs towque (and some have cotter pins as well)
Write again if you still need help...or..if I am more screwed up than I realize.
----------------
Re. using grease inside this steering box here is some facts to help you decide.
First...grease is nothing but some fiber or fine material which is soaked
with the oil and other chemicals like moly, barium, sodium etc. to make a
desired grease. If only the liquids were injected into most joint and
bearings it would of course run out, so they get the oil and chemicals to
stay put by making it a part of the "carrier" material.
Grease carriers can be made very thin and the Nat. Lube grease Institute
(NLGI) has thickness ratings from 0 to 4. Number for is very thick and
cannot be pumped. It is used on industrial equip like chains and conveyors etc.
Automotive wheel bearings as well as grease fittings on steering joints,
drive shafts etc. use NLGI No. 2 year around or in very climate you could
use NLGI No.1 which is much thinner.
Number 1,2,3,4 are semi fluid and will not pour at normal temps. found
underhood, even in hot climate. Number 0 may become liquid under heat
found in cars and trucks.
Because of the high oil content in grease, you could use say No 1 in Rootes
steering boxes and never have a problem. However....in winter, this No 2
might channel away from the worm/balls/shaft surfaces and allow metal to
metal contact which would make wear!
Owners living in warm areas would NOT have this problem.
Also...in really cold temps, the No.1 and particularly the No.2 would
increase steering effort somewhat due to their stiffening affect.
The Lubriplate co (and likely others) makes a semi-fluid EP additive grease
which I use in differentials of antique cars. This lube pours sluggishly
in cool temp and pours better at normal room temp. It has no chemicals
which would attack or etch bronze or other metals and it will not run out
if seals are resonable.
Other mfr's make similar semi fluid EP greases so you may find your local
lubricant distributors have something along those lines.
Frankly, I would replace the oil seal and stick with using Rootes
recommended liquid oil which I assume is motor oil (SAE 30) or Gear oil SAE
90 (which equals 30 motor oil in thickness).
Dick T.
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