Sage Advice

From: Jay Laifman (Jay_Laifman(at)countrywide.com)
Date: Wed Oct 22 1997 - 10:35:01 CDT


>Exhaust fumes. I've got them in the passenger compartmet. I've changed
>the fuel tank crossover hose, plugged all the holes going into the
>passenger compartment and the trunk (including the jacking points, etc),
>and have replaced the door rubber.

Are these exhaust fumes or fuel fumes?

>The only major thing I haven't replaced is the shifter boot which I've
ordered
>and should get in a couple of days.

If you are getting exhaust fumes, there is a leak somewhere and plugging
the holes may fix the symptoms but not cure the problem. I would suggest
checking the gaskets at both ends of the exhaust manifold. I have never
blown the one against the head, but the one between the manifold and the
down tube never seems to last. That being said, even when it goes, I don't
seem to sense extra fumes.

How's the gas mileage? I would suggest tracing the entire fuel line from
the cross-over pipe all the way to the fuel pump and then up to the carbs.
You might also want to check the large rubber tubes which connect the
cross-over pipe to each of the gas tanks, and possibly the bottom of the
gas tanks, for leaks.

One other thought - as I recall there was a little port off of the side of
the rubber pipe that goes from the gas cap to the right side gas tank.
Mine was broken there once and it did cause fumes. I got a new one from SS
that cured that problem.

> I couldn't figure out how to tighten this down. Turning the bolt at the
top of the
>shock does no good and it just keeps on turning. Is something broken,
>and if so, how do I fix it? Will I damage something if I keep driving it
>until it's fixed?

You seem to be missing the retaining nut. The threaded part of the shock
should stick up through the hole. On the top of the threaded part, it
should be squared with no threads where you can hold it with a wrench.
Then a rubber donut, followed by a metal washer/cap, followed by a nut
should be on the threaded part. The nut should be tightened down (holding
the squared part of the tip of the shock) to squeeze the rubber against the
metal part of the car where the shock comes through. A corresponding
rubber donut and metal cap should be underneath the hole where the shock
comes through.
> Where the shifter meets the ball below it, there is a good deal of space
>and free play so that you can move the shifter a bit before the ball
moves.
>Is this normal or should the shifter and ball basically be one piece?

Not normal. It should be one piece. But, I don't known that this will
cause any particular noise. Oh, and the ball and shift lever should be one
piece, but the metal cup that goes over the ball is slotted, if I recall.
Jay



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