I used the lead free silver solder in my plumbing in my house. Make
sure the parts are very clean, and I suggest a bit of 400 wet sanding on the
place where the solder goes. To guarantee a clean joint.
I would strongly suggest that the floats be washed inside and out
and dried before you bring open flame near them....!!
Rich
> ----------
> From: Jarrid Gross (Yorba Linda, CA)[SMTP:GROSS(at)UNIT.COM]
> Reply To: Jarrid Gross (Yorba Linda, CA)
> Sent: Monday, February 16, 1998 11:19 AM
> To: alpines(at)autox.team.net; Frank Marrone
> Subject: RE: Fuel tank sensor
>
>
> ----------
> From: Frank Marrone
>
> >My Series I (with the holes in the tank) had its float badly rusted
> out.
> >It could not be repaired. I went down to the local autoparts dealer
> and
> >looked through their book of tank floats and found a brass one that
> >approximated the volume of the Alpine original. Removed the old float
> from
> >the rod, soldered the new one on and all was well, even seemed to give
> a
> >fairly accurate indication of how much fuel was left in the tank!
> >
> >I used standard lead tin solder. Jarrid, is there a reason to use
> silver
> >solder in this application?
>
> It has less of a tendancy to corrode "oxidize the lead" than does
> a standard solder. It is also stronger, but requires more heat.
>
> Silver solder is not silver per se, but rather an alloy of Lead, Tin,
> Silver and a little of everything else imaginable. Ive seen different
> colors from different vendors, but most seem to have a touch of
> red to the color, suggesting a hint of brass. Also, some of the best
> silver solder I have bought has a warning that it contains Cadmium,
> which you really ought not to inhale.
>
> Silver solder has a harder finish compared to Tin Lead, and I've even
> used it on radiators.
>
>
> Jarrid Gross
>
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