Re: rear axle rebound straps

From: Jerome Yuzyk (jerome(at)supernet.ab.ca)
Date: Fri Apr 24 1998 - 04:36:37 CDT


In article <3.0.1.32.19980423135641.0068e104(at)portal.connect.ab.ca>, you wrote:
> I have to replace these. I think something like military webbing would work.
> Anyone have a source for size, procedure, etc?
> Terry McKitrick
> 1960 Series I
> B900632LRx
>

This is the article I mentioned. I made mine from a piece of one left
hanging on the car. I used fabric glue to keep the folded fabric
together while I pressed the seams. Drill the holes using two pieces of
wood clamped tightly over the area to be drilled. When you go to put
the straps in you need to set each bolt one or two threads into the hole
in the body, and work each bolt in a little at a time. It will seem as
though it's impossible to get them both in, but it can be done. If you
make the holes a little undersized they will form a threaded section
around the bolt and help hold things together as you gently ease each
bolt into its hole. Don't bend the metal bracket: it's oversized to
provide a spring effect when the straps are in tension.

From: OldeAlp(at)aol.com
Date: Sun, 12 May 1996 18:05:10 -0400
To: alpines(at)autox.team.net
Subject: Rebound straps
Sender: owner-alpines(at)autox.team.net
Precedence: bulk
Reply-To: OldeAlp(at)aol.com
Status: RO

This question came up a few weeks ago, now I can give some answers.

The strap is 22" long by 1 1/4" wide. It is made up with a core of 1' wide
woven webbing wrapped in a wider piece folded in three, giving a 4 layer
finished strap. The ends attach under the buffer bracket using what Rootes
calls a lock washer - a 1' x 1 1/4" piece of thin sheet metal with 30 1/16th
inch holes punched in it - half from each side - to give a cheese grater
effect.

There seems to be a lot of slack, but it becomes taut with two inches of axle
drop. On the side with the broken strap, it dropped 2 5/8" before the
springs, shocks, whatever stopped it. These observations were on an empty
car sitting in the garage. The dynamics of power, motion, and load were not
considered - mainly 'cause I don't have a clue as to how to do that.

Caveats- the straps on my Series 2 are not factory - they were obtained from
Rick McLeod about 1982 but seemed right. My shock absorbers were rebuilt by
Apple Hydraulics about six years ago - the one on the side with the good
rebound strap is now leaking. The springs and bushings have never been
touched - but probably should be.

The broken strap shows signs of a lot of friction before it went away. Guess
the rear axle windup from all of those power launches took its toll.

"Ole"

-- 

- J e r o m e Y u z y k | jerome(at)supernet.ab.ca - - BRIDGE Scientific Services | www.tgx.com/bridge - - Sunbeam Alpine Series II #9118636 | www.tgx.com/bridge/sunbeam -



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