>The head on my impact screw driver detaches from the part you hammer on. =
> It is half inch drive and you can use it with a breaker bar and an =
>extension. This has worked on many of the door screws I have attempted =
>to remove. Use care and make sure the bit is a good fit for the screw =
>or else you will have to get the drill set out.
yeah, i've had the doors on and off my car a few times. impact driver is
the way to go if its the first time for a while, and just as you can use
the breaker/tommy bar trick, conversely you can also use 1/4" socket
extension pieces between the bit and the body of the impact driver.
if you remove the footwell trim, you can spray release oil on the back of
the bolt retaining plates.
>Some of the screws
>holding the hinge on are very hard to get to...
I still had to use a grip wrench on a slim shafted screwdriver to get at
one or two bolts.
>Any tips and hints for that kind of job?
>Something special needed?
If your doors fit well, mark the hinges' position horizontally and
vertically before you take them off.
I've used a length of timber with a groove cut in it. hydraulic jack under
the timber, and sit the door ledge in the groove. helps keep things stable
when theres only one of you fiddling with the fit. I half tightened the
bolts, then knocked the hinges up/down etc. with a lenght of wood.
Of course, I currently don't have to worry about my concours paint work !
there were no shims/ gaskets on my hinges, but some folk might have them.?
p.s. If your door to rear-wing gaps are narrower at the top than at the
bottom, you may have serious structural problems. Guess how I know :-(
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