i have successfully completed a gm alternator conversion
for my series 5 alpine. this is one wire hook-up from the not battery side of the starter solenoid. i
haven't figured out what to disconnect from the remaining configuration, i.e., the relay and the idiot
light/flasher unit/warning light simulator/,but the alternator control box is no longer necessary. so i
have a bunch of wires hanging around with taped up ends,until i figure it out. any advise from this
list would be appreciated. also, i don't know about the application to replace a generator. here's
the modification procedure, for those interested. the gm alternator has a long casting for the
pivot/securing bolt. too long to fit the alternator bracket and even if it did fit it would be placed too
far back for the pulley to align with the fan and balancer. you need to remove the alternator
bracket. when observed closely it consists of two pieces of bar stock shaped and welded to each
other. where the front bolt hole is, i hacksawed the inner piece at the elbow and
separated/removed the inner piece of stock with a chisel. this allows you to keep as much of the
alternator housing in tact while maximizing the forward positioning of the alternator. you then have
to hacksaw off approximately 1/4" - 3/8" off the forward bolt casting of the new alternator. cut
vertically through the bolt casting to the body and then perpendicular cut along the casting at the
body to the first cut. this should be carefully measured to correctly align the pulleys. taking off too
little is better than too much! i originally tried to cut a slot in the bolt casting so it could straddle the
slimmer bracket flange, but it eventually broke off, so i wouldn't bother. You then need one new
long bolt and bushing/spacer to bridge the front and back flanges of the modified bracket. a little
trial and error and your set. you also need to procure a curved tensioning bracket to replace the
straight bracket of the lucas alternator. the curved bracket end by the water pump hold down bolt
needs to bent and the new bracket angled and generally beat on with a heavy hammer and anvil to
get it in a servicable alignment. its fairly obvious the curved bracket and spacer can be procured
from your friendly auto electric shop. one word of caution. my guy sold me a modified one-wire
gm alternator with some screwy resistor in parallel with the one-wire and essentially grounded to
the case of the alternator. the theory here was to get the alternator to kick in at low rpms. don't go
for it. what he didn't tell me is that it essentially creates a permanent drain on the battery as well
even with the ignition off. several dead batteries a head scratching sessions identified this resistor
as the culprit. no problems since removing the resistor. low rpm charging is not an alpine problem
that i can foresee. yours truly m gardner sv cleveland,oh,usayou need to remove the alternator
bracket. when observed closely it
consists of two pieces of bar stock shaped and welded to each other. where
the front bolt hole is, i hacksawed the inner piece at the elbow and
separated/removed the inner piece of stock with a chisel. this allows you
to keep as much of the alternator housing in tact while maximizing the
forward positioning of the alternator.
you then have to hacksaw off approximately 1/4" - 3/8" off the forward bolt
casting of the new alternator. cut vertically through the bolt casting to
the body and then perpendicular cut along the casting at the body to the
first cut. this should be carefully measured to correctly align the
pulleys. taking off too little is better than too much! i originally tried
to cut a slot in the bolt casting so it could straddle the slimmer bracket
flange, but it eventually broke off, so i wouldn't bother.
You then need one new long bolt and bushing/spacer to bridge the front and
back flanges of the modified bracket. a little trial and error and your
set.
you also need to procure a curved tensioning bracket to replace the
straight bracket of the lucas alternator. the curved bracket end by the
water pump hold down bolt needs to bent and the new bracket angled and
generally beat on with a heavy hammer and anvil to get it in a servicable
alignment. its fairly obvious
the curved bracket and spacer can be procured from your friendly auto
electric shop.
one word of caution.
my guy sold me a modified one-wire gm alternator with some screwy resistor
in parallel with the one-wire and essentially grounded to the case of the
alternator. the theory here was to get the alternator to kick in at low
rpms. don't go for it. what he didn't tell me is that it essentially
creates a permanent drain on the battery as well even with the ignition
off. several dead batteries a head scratching sessions identified this
resistor as the culprit. no problems since removing the resistor. low rpm
charging is not an alpine problem that i can foresee.
yours truly
m gardner
sv cleveland,oh,usa
This archive was generated by hypermail 2b30 : Tue Sep 05 2000 - 10:22:23 CDT