rob(at)wisemaninsurance.com writes:
>HELP.
>Problem #1.
>Okay, tonight I rewired my broken turn signal. There was one wire that
>was fried to totally bare from the turn signal to where it connected to
>what looked to be some sort of a fusable link, but I'm not sure what it
>was. I was able to get all exterior lights to work, except, brake
>lights (haven't tried them yet) and turn signals. At this point, I am
>suspecting the "Turn Signal Flasher Unit" . The problem is I have no
>idea where it is located. Can someone lead me in the general direction.
Under the dash, near the steering column. At least that's the way it
is on my SV.
>Problem #2.
>I removed my oil sump and replace the gaskets, and the two little cork
>strips. Well after running the engine this evening, I have oil leaking
>out from the from cork strip. My gasket came with two different
>thickness cork strips (I used the thin ones) I am only leaking from the
>front gasket. Am I supposed to use different thickness in the front
>than the back, and what is the best way to get the gasket to stick while
>you put on the sump. Do you put the cork strips on the sump on the the
>engine. I guess by this time you can tell you are dealing with a
>complete mechanical novice. Oh well you have to learn sometime.
Is this a 1725? Doesn't sound like it. The gasket on a 1725 consists
of two long cork pieces (covers oil pan flanks) and two rubber gaskets
(covers crank bearing caps at each end). If you want a sure seal you
should clean all oil surrounding these surfaces and cover both sides of
the gasket surfaces with silicone sealant. I attach the rubber gaskets
to the bearing caps and the cork gasket to the pan and let them sit for
about ten minutes before installation of the pan. You may have to hold
down the rubber gaskets to get them to set. Let dry over night before
adding oil or running engine. Leaks around the bearing caps are very
common and I have found this to be the best way to avoid them.
Christopher
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