Steve,
I was looking at my Alpine 1600 head the other day when I checked the
valve adjustments. Note the following applies to a 1600. Perhaps the
facts and figures are the same for the 1725 engine?
I believe that you will need to remove the valve train in order to get a
clear shot at all of the head bolts. Be sure to use a torque wrench set
to 48 ft.-lbs. (6.6 kg-m), tighten when the engine is COLD, and in the
following sequence:
Passenger Side (U.S.)
+-------------------------------+
--| 7 5 1 4 10 |
| O O O O O |
-| |
Radiator | | Firewall
---| 9 3 2 6 8 |
| O O O O O |
+-------------------------------+
| | | | | |
| |
Driver Side (U.S.)
After the head bolts have been tightened to the correct torque wrench
setting (and your valve clearances have been set), thoroughly warm up
the engine. Let it cool completely and retighten the cylinder head.
Finally, thoroughly warm up the engine and reset the valve clearances.
Regarding your need to reset the valve clearances over the last couple
months. Have the adjustments primarily been at the back of the engine?
If so, I'd say this could be it.
Brad
steve sage wrote:
>
> Hello Everyone:
> Here's my latest fun Alpine V problem.
<snip>
> In any event, I've got to get this solved so I'm going to re-torque the
> head in the morning, as was suggested to me, to see if the head has
> indeed loosened. Good luck to me as this is the first time I've
> attempted this operation on the car. I'm going to read through the shop
> manual tonight to see how to do it. Are there any tricks involved or
> anything I should be cautious about?
>
<snip>
>
> However, I'm wondering if maybe the fact that I've had to re-adjust my
> valves several times since the rebuild could be a reflection of the head
> loosening up over the months.
>
> As usual, your ideas and suggestions will be appreciated.
>
> Steve Sage
> 1967 Series V
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