Steve-
I'm no expert having only done it once (on a machine that was already pretty
rough so I felt OK risking it) and have few mechanical credentials to back
me up. I'll post this to the list and we'll see what other
help/suggestions/corrections we may be able to obtain. I doubt my one-of
method will produce concourse quality results but here goes . . .
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Steve Van Ronk [mailto:glblitnpwr(at)nidlink.com]
> Sent: Thursday, April 22, 1999 11:43 AM
> To: pwheeler(at)ix.netcom.com
> Subject: Alpine SV top
>
>
> K Patrick,
>
> I just found your post on installing a SV top. I have a new top and am
> just getting ready to install it, but have no instructions or diagrams.
> Also, it does not appear to have the rubber gaskets required. Could
> you help me figure this thing out before I risk a hack job. First, what
> are the rubber gaskets along the rear?
Ans: A rubber gasket fits along the rear of the car between the metal frame
of the car and the top. This provides a seal for the external of the car
and helps prevent water from entering. It also provides an attractive
piping and is a 'soft' cushion for the top to be pressed into by the back
plates. I'd recommend (if you've the time) ordering one from Sunbeam
Specialties and ask them for the installation sheet they have for tops (it's
a one pager, but was very helpful to me, and it is free). If you cannot
wait to order a special one, try and find a piece of hard plastic/rubber
weather-stripping that is at least one inch wide and will travel the entire
distance around the back of the car. It should have a rounded top end to
help with the seal and the one from SS has little ridges that will also help
in placement and water rejection.
CAUTION: as you've probably noted in your research, there are three metal
stays that run along the back of the car frame. the middle and longest one
is the ONLY one that holds the top down. The tendency is the place the two
side edge strips in the same location holding the edges of the top down,
DON'T, it'll really mess you up (even professional shops do this)
> Second, what all points is the
> top actually fastened to the frame?
Ans: (Assuming you mean top frame) To the frame you attach the edges along
the windows. There should be some thin metal strips that go up along the
back of the window edge that are usually underneath the window
weather-stripping. These are used to hold the top down and seal it at this
critical juncture. If you've a good top it should be cut to fit correctly
in this location and little to no trimming should be needed. You should
also have some Velcro strips sown into the sides of the top along the upper
edge of the window. These will attach to some opposite Velcro strips on
little metal strips that should be screwed/riveted into the top of your
frame. I did not use enough screws and am forever trying to straighten the
Velcro out, when in doubt, use three more screws than you think necessary.
The only other spot is the piece that crosses the top of the windshield,
save this for last. the only other connection is in the back of the car as
discussed above.
>Third, what is the sequence of
> attachment points?
Ans: Start from the back, do the middle windows, work to the front. People
recommend doing it in the sun on a warm (not hot) day. Do be sure there are
at least two of you for at least part of the effort (in doing the windows it
was invaluable to have someone on the other side to see that we got the
sides balanced correctly). Save the top front piece for last (see below)
> Fourth, how does one get the proper
> tension/alignment?
Ans: On a warm day you should be able to stretch it taught (I recommend
against tight as the tops are known to shrink and on a cold day or evening
they can be an utter bear to get up). I used the top front piece to set my
tension. Once the back and sides were set it was a _relatively_ simple
matter to pull the top against the windshield cross member. I start out a
little loose and put a couple of screws down to tack it in place. It was
too loose on the edges and I ended up making several attempts and pulling it
tighter and tighter each time. Since the screw holes were placed in an area
of the top that was unused and unexposed it was not damaging to the final
product.
>I have no access to any other Alpine to look at.
>
> I'll let it go at that until I hear from you so as not to burden you
> with questions if you aren't able or interested in helping.
>
> Much thanks,
> Steve VR
>
>
>
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