I agree, the paper backed veneers are very nice to work with. I made a wood
dash a few years back and used the non-backed veneer. It turned out very
nice, but Larry is right about the splitting. I would recommend using a two
part epoxy clear coat to finish the dash. This is the same product used to
coat bars and wood counter tops. I was able to buy it from a local home
improvement store. I believe it is called crystal sheen?? or something like
that. It is easy to use and works with just two coats. Just don't forget to
put the white rub off letters on the wood veneer before coating it.You can
get these letters from any office supply or art store. I was able to match
the size and font without any problem. - Ian
Larry Paulick wrote:
> Chris, I redid my dash with new burled walnut veneer. There were some
> void on the face side of the plywood, which were filled with wood
> filler, available at any hardware/Home Depo, etc.
>
> If you are using new veneer, there are various glues available. Veneer
> glue requires that the veneer be pressed on the plywood for several
> hours to get a firm contact/set.
>
> Constantines, in NY, has a veneer glue that does not require this, but
> only a good roller to make contact with the plywood. They specialize in
> woods, veneers and know their products/stuff.
>
> My veneer has been on for 9 months and is on the plywood to stay.
>
> BTW, they sell a paper backed veneer, which I used, that will not crack,
> like the typical Tiger dash. The paper backing allows movement, with
> out the problems found in typical veneers that are exposed to weather
> condition/temp such as in a car dash.
>
> They have burled walnut, and it is beautiful. Also easy to use.
>
> Larry
-- Ian Spencer <www.sunbeamalpine.org> '61 Harrington Alpine B9104782 OD HRO '62 Harrington Le Mans BH9115930 OD LRX
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