I agree with Tom, "corroless" works excellant. It has one drawback in that
it stinks real bad. So you will have to have a very well ventilated area
to use it.
On removing the rust I use a gasket scrapper to remove the big stuff.
Then I go after it with a brass wire wheel on my drill. Brass being softer
than steel won't booger up the metal to bad. Then I clean it with paint
thinner and apply the Corroless. This method has worked great, many times
for me.
Regards Armand
><<What is the best way to remove the surface rust that builds up on the
>underside of cars that sit outside? Our latest restore car (SV) has
>flakes of rust that need to be removed then treated and neutralized
>before undercoating and it is so widespread, I'm tempted to take an aie
>compressor and blast it all away. Any success stories. Brent Kasl>>
>
>Brent,
>
>The best stuff I've used is the rust stabilizer paints that are on the
>market. I use "Corroless" from Eastwood Co. It's great for the undersides
>of cars because surface preparation does not need to be perfect. I scrape
>and wire brush all the loose rust off as best as I can, and spray or brush
>on "Corroless." It chemically reacts to the rust and keeps it from
>spreading. Once this stuff dries, you can paint, or go directly to the
>undercoating.
>
>A few years ago I tried this stuff on a rust spot forming on some
>"Japanesium" (we all know how fast Japanese cars can rust before your very
>eyes)and it's still holding. The paint around it has started to blister and
>rust, but the original spot hasn't gotten any worse.
>
>Good luck.
>
>Tom
ritchie(at)mcn.org
Armand & Lorie Ritchie
This archive was generated by hypermail 2b30 : Tue Sep 05 2000 - 08:45:21 CDT