Bert Clewits wrote:
> Hi Alpiners,
>
> Sometime ago I read something about a trick with a chain to get the rear hub
>
> of the axle, I like to tackle my oil leakage problem shortly and I don't have the
>
> time to make up one of those hub pullers.
>
> Can someone please send it to me.
>
> Thanks,
>
> Bert Clewits
>
> Netheralnds
>
Bert:
The "trick " you refer to is simply attaching a large chain to your hub bolts and
"whipping" the chain in order to produce pulling impact on the hub ( a crude
equivalent to a slide hammer puller). I have used this method on farm machinery,
etc. out in the field, when a puller was not available, but would really hesitate to
use it on a car because of the body damage that might result. Instead, I would
suggest rental of a heavy duty puller, and using it properly, rather than as done
below. As you can see, pulling was accomplished only at high torque, when if the
author HAD hammered on the center screw as soon as a fair degree of tension on the
puller was reached, all that force would probably have been unnecessary. Alternating
hammer blows and tightening are necessary with any proper use of a puller.
(Billy-Bob and his buddies were right!)
The rest of the advice in this article is very good.
Ron Tebo
To: <alpines(at)autox.team.net>
A leaky wheel seal led to the discovery of a good hub puller for non-wire
wheel hubs. I decided to pull the hubs without removing the axles, like
the manual says. I tried with an 8" claw-type puller, but when its center
screw started to imitate a pretzel, gave up. I went down to the local
rental place and rented a Proto 4001 hub puller for $4.50 for 4 hrs. This
is a generic model that bolts up to two of the 4 wheel lugs on the hub.
The center plate through which the screw passes and on which the "claws"
are attached is about 1/2 thick. The claws are 3/8" thick, and the center
screw is a 7/8 x 8 coarse thread. There is a large "beater bar" that can
be engaged with the hex head on the screw to operate the puller. It looked
like a good way to get out some frustrations, but I couldn't bring myself
to pound on my hubs with a 3 pound sledge. Being a rental tool, it looked
like the thing had been beat on with extreme prejudice by Billy-Bob and his
buddies down at the dirt track demo-derby.
I used my combination breaker bar and torque wrench that's about 3 ft.
long, and a 1 1/8 socket to turn the screw on the puller. I first took the
axle nut off, reversed it and screwed it in part-way leaving a "cup" to
locate the screw of the puller. This also retains the hub, and prevents the
hub and puller from going ballistic when it snaps. The end of the puller's
screw has a hole, and a 3/4" ball bearing would have been just the thing to
connect it to the axle nut "cup". I didn't have a bearing, so I ground an
old lugnut to fit the axle and puller. I also threaded some lug nuts on
the lugs and wedged a crowbar between them so that it made contact with the
floor and prevented the hub from turning. A good substitute for Churchill
special tool RG-16-A. I shot a little liquid wrench on the axle for luck,
bowed to the spirit of Rootes, Lucas, Girling, and Churchill, and layed on
the bar. The hub gave way with a proverbial bang at about 150 ft. lbs. on
the torque wrench. I was able to change the seals and replace the brake
shoes without incident.
This whole thing started when I put Red Line Synthetic Gear Oil in the
diff. Synthetic lubricants are great products, but if you have a weak seal
they will find it. I read this in a shop manual recently, but had to
experience it myself, I guess. Anyway, there are no leaks, and I am
enjoying better brakes.
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