I agree.....I used this method and everything went fine. I would suggest a
piece of wire to tie the spring to the lower A arm just in case it tries to
escape from the jack quicker that you would like.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Greg Locke" <glocke(at)ihug.co.nz>
To: "Alpine list" <alpines(at)autox.team.net>
Sent: Monday, April 10, 2000 8:10 PM
Subject: Fw: front end overhaul
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: Greg Locke <glocke(at)ihug.co.nz>
> To: robert nanzig <rnanzig(at)webtv.net>
> Sent: Monday, 10 April 2000 12:14
> Subject: Re: front end overhaul
>
>
> > Hi Rob
> >
> > I've found the best way to remove front springs without the proper
> > compression tools is with the suspension still on the car. I bought a
pair
> > of off the shelf spring compressors once but could not get them in to
> > compress the spring enough, though the use of the proper rootes
churchill
> > tool does look the safest way.
> >
> > Anyway, I will detail the method I use, which basicly relies on the
weight
> > of the vehicle to control the spring pressure.
> >
> > 1. Remove the anti-roll bar.
> >
> > 2. Jack the front of the car up a good foot and place solid supports
under
> > the front cross member, and lower the car onto it. The front wheels will
> > need to be a good 4 or so inches off the ground, with the lower A arms
> > unsupported. Remove the front wheels.
> >
> > 3. Remove the shock absorbers.
> >
> > 4. Place a trolley jack directly under the A arm, near where the shock
> > absorber is attached. Jack up the A arm a few inches. You can now remove
> the
> > lower ball joint, with the spring pressure effectively being taken by
the
> > jack.
> >
> > 5. Very carefully and slowly, lower the trolley jack. I recommend doing
> this
> > from arms length, or positioning the jack so that the handle is to the
> front
> > or underneath the car, so you are out of fire if the jack happens to
> release
> > too quickly. Use a jack that you can release gently.
> >
> > 6. The A arm should drop completely (providing the car is jacked up high
> > enough) , so that the spring becomes loose enough to remove by hand.
Prod
> it
> > with a stick first to check that it still isn't under tension.
> >
> >
> > If you are unclear with any of this, check it out first, as there is a
lot
> > of force in the spring if it decides to exit quickly. Having said that,
I
> > have have never had any problems using this method, and it is fairly
quick
> > as well.
> >
> >
> > Greg
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > ----- Original Message -----
> > From: robert nanzig <rnanzig(at)webtv.net>
> > To: <alpines(at)autox.team.net>
> > Sent: Sunday, 9 April 2000 08:45
> > Subject: front end overhaul
> >
> >
> > > It's time for me to replace the bushings, ball joints, splined
hubs
> > > and rotors in the front end of my SV and I was hoping for suggestions
on
> > > the most efficient way to go about this.
> > > Is there one convenient jack point or jack stands location to
perform
> > > all these tasks and in what order would you do these R and Rs so to
not
> > > duplicate any of the jobs.
> > > What is the safest way to remove the coil springs? Has anyone
> > > fabricated their own Churchill RG 50D spring compressor? This part of
> > > the job scares me and I'd like to know the dangers and how to avoid
> > > them. It's funny how you get more carefull as you get older, with only
> > > half of your life remaining but as a kid with your whole life ahead
of
> > > you , you take life threatening risks. Like the time my friend talked
me
> > > into crawling under his blocked car holding a wrench to the
> > > differential while he pulled the wrench with a rope tied to the bumper
> > > of another car. Thank God the rope broke!!
> > > Any help appreciated.
> > >
> > > Rob Nanzig
> > > 67SV
> > >
> > >
> >
>
This archive was generated by hypermail 2b30 : Tue Sep 05 2000 - 08:56:01 CDT