>the rust on VIN 1758 looks pretty bad...
>with the plenum covers removed, the driver's side opening looks
like it has
>flakes on the inside. The underside of the chassis looks about the
same as
>the plenum.
=============
As long as there are no holes, or so thin you can easily punch holes
through the plenum, then you can treat the metal with rust
conversion chemicals that will stop further rusting and convert it
to a protective coating. Same for the frame. I would inspect all
weld areas for cracks and repair as necessary.
=============
>
>I'm really confused now that John gave me the $750-1,500 figure....
>I THINK I GOT RIPPED OFF!!!!!!!
>I paid $6950 for the car, $650 for tax/licence at the DMV, $1100
for a new
>cooling system (re-cored radiator, all new hoses).
=============
No, you didn't get ripped off. You paid what you considered, based
on what you knew, was a reasonable price for an object of your
desire. You set the value, not the seller. After all, he didn't
force you to buy it. Now you have to decide which is more important:
driving, repairing, maintaining a car that still stops people in
their tracks; or cutting your losses and either selling it or
driving it more or less as is without spending anymore $$$ than you
absolutely have to keep it running/safe. If John's assessment is
accurate, then it will probably still be worth that, or more, in the
years to come even as a high mileage parts car. $1100 does sound
pretty stiff for a cooling system though.
=============
The carpet is in need of
>replacement,
>and so are the seats. The dash is fine, except for the wierd
problem where
>the tach reads 7000 rpm at freeway speeds (55mph) and the loose
connection
>behind the gas guage. The horns need replacement, the driver's
side door has
>lots of stress cracks and has started to come unglued, the air door
system is
>missing the electric compressor, the vacuum pump does not work, and
i'm
>currently using a different air tank than the ones the vendors
sell.
>
>I'm really starting to get steamed about how much money my parents
and I have
>been spending to get ripped off, which is not limited to the
bricklin. If my
>car is only worth $1,500, then I need to know which appraiser would
accurately
>give a value to my bricklin. From there, it looks like I'll have
to take the
>guys who sold me the car to court for selling a $1,500 car for
$6950. If
>only I knew where to start....
==============
He did nothing legally wrong. It's your job to determine the
condition of any used car, house, whatever, and set it's value to
you personally based on condition. The burden is on the potential
buyer to determine condition. As they say, "Caveat Emptor" (let the
buyer beware)! That's a quote from a Judge, BTW.
==============
>
>Don't the lawyers get all the money anyway?
>I don't wanna wait a year or two to get my money back, either....
==============
I have nothing printable to say concerning lawyers. In the future,
just research a purchase more thouroughly before you plunk down your
hard earned cash.
==============
>
>Now the idea of building my own car sounds like the best option.
>the only problems are a lack of money, a garage, and the know how
to do it.
==============
That didn't stop Malcolm! :^))
==============
>I know what I want, I just donno how to put it together =(
>
>Ideas, anyone?
==============
Well, until you have the $$$ to buy the necessary tools, shop space,
read basic suspension, chassis, aerodynamics, etc., design books to
learn the dynamics of a car and how they interact with each other.
Study vibration damping. Research material fastening techniques.
Learn how to ARC, TIG, and MIG weld, form, cast, metal at a local
tech school. The list goes on and on................. :^))
GM
>
>Riley Marquis III
>VIN 1758
>
|