>Thank you JTB and GM and others for help regarding my fuel temp
guage.
>The guage is functional, the wires are still present and
functional, I
>just need to attach my temp sender and plug it in. As for the fuel
pump
>problem, the fuel pump went bad (again after 30 miles) so I
replaced
>it. If this one goes I will start looking for bigger and better
>problems
===================
Is the pump actuating rod bent, causing misalignment with the pump
lever? If your going to use a mechanical pump you should get optimal
performance from a high volume/high pressure after market pump with
an inline regulator near the carb set at 6 - 6.5 psi.
===================
>
> On that note, can you dead head an electric fuel pump? Someone
>at the car parts store said that you must have a return line to the
>tank, however, the Holley that I have does not have a return line
>connector.
===================
Yes, if the pump has a built-in pressure cutout. Obviously, if the
pump has no return outlet, then a return line isn't required.
===================
>
>So I started my Brik up and it ran like a charm. (It's funny how
poorly
>my car ran without gas) But after two minutes I saw smoke
(billowing
>smoke). Shut the car off and remembered that I hadn't replaced
the
>last two valve cover bolts. Who all has removed the valve covers
(to
>replace gaskets or put nice chrome valve covers on?) When I put
them
>back I cannot get the last bolt on each side in (the ones
underneath
>the window sill. Any helpful ideas?
===================
I assume that the covers came with their own hardware. Normally the
screw/flange hole is a tighter tolerance than the OEM parts. Some
hardware even having a centering lip for proper alignment. Can you
loosely install the two rear screws first, then the two front
screws? If so, then the rest should just barely fit. If not, then I
would lightly ream out the front and back holes just a wee bit for a
centered adjustment.
GM
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