Good News!
I was finally able to install my center console with a little help from
my dad!
The problem was not the supports in the center of the dash. The problem
was actually getting the emergency brake handle through the opening in
the console.
Now all I have to to is extend the wiring so I can put the inside door
switches in the console. It appears that the console I have has not been
designed with the same switch mounting points as the factory console.
Anybody run across this? What is the easiest way to extend the wiring?
Whatever it is, I'm sure that I will be extending 14 wires!
Also, I noticed that my driver side 1/4 window came loose...way loose!
Now I have an excuse to go ahead and purchase a T50 torx driver and
remove the interior 1/4 panel.
However, before I dive into the project, I have a few questions and a
tip:
1: What potential problems can I encounter while removing the T50 torx
bolt for the seat belt? Kim's article "magic carpet ride" mentioned a
problem, but I'm not quite clear on what it is. Is the nut just a hole
in the birdcage with threads tapped, a nut welded to the birdcage, or a
nut that's going to fall down into an inaccessable area when I remove the
bolt?
TIP: Stan Fransen, the West Coast Bricklin Doc, showed me a tip on the
1/4 window. The cars came from the factory with a seal that goes around
the window opening. He suggested removing the 1/4 window, along with the
seal. Then he fixes the flws in the fiberglass so that the curves are
more precise rather than jagged. Then he "glues" the 1/4 window to the
inside of the 1/4 panel(the body panel). This results in a much better
look and fit.
2: If I were to follow this tip, what glue would be best for gluing the
1/4 glass to the fiberglass?
3: I remember someone mentioning painting the inside of the body panels
flat black so the car doesn't have a "translucent" look or something like
that. what paint should I ask for? (e.g. part #)
Riley Marquis III
VIN 1758
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