I repaired a cracked block once using the following method:
Since the crack was about 5 inches long on the exterior of the block, dist.
side, I drilled two holes on each end, about 1 inch past where the crack
stopped. (This to terminate the cracking)
Then I drilled 1/4 holes along the crack every 1 inch.
Then threaded each hole with pipe thread tap.
Then used tapered, threaded, cast iron plugs to screw into holes.
Then tightened them until they broke off flush with the block surface.
Finally used a pneumatic peening tool which flattened the CI plugs by
working the metal with the peening head (cycling about 600 cycles per min)
and doing the same for the crack between the plugs.
That block lasted another 8 years until I put a Ford engine in the roadster.
Sold the repaired block with the complete engine.
Who knows, it might still be running.
Please be aware the above method was using a complete "system" of crack
repair in CI blocks. Very specialized tools, and not sure if they are still
available, nor where.
Karl Payne
>
>I have another question; if one's block has a crack in
>it, and it's seeping water is the only long-term
>solution to get another block? Would a weld or epoxy
>be a workable solution?
>
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