I use ATF in dash pots --- viscosity stays pretty stable with temp changes
Pete Koernig
'70 1600 with permanently siezed brake master cylinder
'69 2000
about to get rid of (no time or $)
>________________________________
>
From: "Keith0alan@aol.com" <Keith0alan@aol.com>
>To: VulForge@aol.com;
datsun-roadsters@autox.team.net
>Sent: Monday, January 9, 2012 6:53 AM
>Subject: Re: [Roadsters] Poor running
>
>Check your dash pot oil in the
carbs. If there is no oil or it is too thin
>you will lean out and stumble
on acceleration.
>
> Do get a timing light and check the timing. You may
have the
>distributor one tooth off.
>
>keith w
>
>
>In a message dated
1/8/2012 6:54:56 P.M. Pacific Standard Time,
>VulForge@aol.com writes:
>
>My current '67 roadster has never run right. It idles OK, and runs
>great
>over 2000 RPM, but going from idle to speed it backfires through the
>carbs,
>stumbles and stalls. If the RPM is brought up slowly until over
2000 or
>so, it will run fine. I have the distributor cranked all the way
to
>advance
>(CCW) to get it to run at all. I think I am missing
something obvious.
>Vac advance works, points at .020, plugs at .028.
The points keep
>closing
>up. I used silicone grease on the distributor
cam, but the point
>follower
>seem to be wearing quickly. I do not have
a working timing light. I
>confirmed firing order/plug wires. What am I
missing? Could the
>distributor be
>a tooth off? Vacuum leak somewhere?
I checked the hose from the back
>carb
>to the advance, it is fine. The
problem gets worse the warmer the engine
>gets. I hate to admit defeat
and throw myself on the mercy of the group,
>but this has got me
flustered.
>
>Thanks in advance!
>
>Russell Criswell
>
>Vulcan's Forge
L.L.C.
>3936 Broadway
>Kansas City, MO 64111
>
>816-931-6303
>816-931-9378
fax
>877-531-1046 toll-free
>vulcans-forge.com
>________________________________________
>
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