Sounds good--we'll do that.
I'm thinking about a little over 6000 for the redline. I'm not ready to
step up for a moldex crank, so I figure I'd better keep the revs
reasonable.
How about the roller rockers--are they worthwhile?
we intend to do the lip seal, and the BFE pulley conversion, no
alternator. Good valve springs, shimmed just right. I expected all that.
Are the standard rods okay if you clean them up & shotpeen, or do we
need something zootier. It would seem with light pistons and 6K redline
I wouldn't need to, but I'm not sure
> -----Original Message-----
> From: cak@dimebank.com [SMTP:cak@dimebank.com]
> Sent: Thursday, July 31, 1997 5:29 PM
> To: BillB@bnj.com; cak@bnj.com; fot@autox.team.net
> Subject: RE: Building a new engine
>
> Ah.
>
> Total Seal has a "unique" second ring that is gapless. You can buy
> a complete ring set from them (John Lye likes their sets with moly
> top rings) or send them your Deves rings to convert. What they do
> is cut away the stock second ring so it's got an inverted L shape
> in section, and then supply another ring that fits into the part
> that was cut away. The two rings go into the same piston slot, with
> their gaps 180 degrees off.
>
> Why bother? Leakdown of 2%, more or less forever. Most engine start
> with leakdown around 5% and quickly proceed to 10-12% ... that's lots
> power and excess pressure in the crankcase.
>
> Ken G can probably recommend a cam once you pick a redline. I thnk the
> standard recipe is lighten, shotpeen and balance everything, put a
> harmonic balancer up front, a lip seal in the back, uprated valve
> springs, lightened flywheel...
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