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RE: Con Rod Bolts

To: Richard Taylor <n196x@mindspring.com>, fot@autox.team.net
Subject: RE: Con Rod Bolts
From: Bill Babcock <BillB@bnj.com>
Date: Mon, 18 May 1998 17:22:15 -0700
Better bolts are cheap insurance. I think I got mine from BFI. I used
locktite and no tabs--the tabs are necessarily made from soft metal and
they squish. I theorize that you get more consistent torque without
them. Sure feels like it. I also used the oil seal conversion, works
great. I certainly recommend it while you have the engine apart. I used
hardened tappets which should help ensure rotation since the faces won't
get grooved so easily. It's hard for the tappet to NOT rotate given the
offset of the cam contact point and the tappet face. 

I left my oil pan stock, but I did add a boss of an oil temperature
gauge. You might also consider an air/fuel meter--you need to add a boss
to your header for that. 

Too bad you didn't do the rear seal conversion when your crank was
turned--you have to have the labyrinth seal scrolls ground off the crank
for the seal conversion kit.

Did you do anything to your rods? I think Ken Gillanders has a lot of
good ideas about engine stuff. 

Bill

-----Original Message-----
From: Richard Taylor [mailto:n196x@mindspring.com]
Sent: Monday, May 18, 1998 4:22 PM
To: fot@autox.team.net
Subject: Con Rod Bolts


Amici'
I am starting my tenth week in a one week project to build a new
(ie,racier) motor for my TR-4.  The crank's been turned, the flywheel
lightened, pistons,clutch,et al balanced and a box full of paraphanalia
cleaned and painted.  The rewarding part is about to begin, I hope.  

A couple of questions have been raised about which I would like to seek
sage wisdom...or whatever wisdom is available. 

1.  What about connecting rod bolts?  Are harder ones better?  What
about
locking tabs? Locktite? What's best system?
2. Has anyone had good luck with the rear oil seal conversion.  I know
it's
a pretty strange concept think of a Triumph w/o the ability to establish
its own territory in the pits, but what's your experience?
3.  How about the windage tray in the pan?  Should I diddle with it
whilst
I have it antiseptically pristine?
4.  What about the tappet bores?  Does anybody do anything about them to
be
assured that the tappets can rotate or do whatever tappets are supposed
to
do? 
4.  And there are certainly a couple of other tricks I should take care
of
while the engine is fully undressed.  Any ideas?

Thanks again,
Richard Taylor
Atlanta

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