And what is the correct way to remove the hub? I've heard a lot about
axles breaking, but not much about hubs. That's why I took four of them
apart and had them magnafluxed. They were all tough. I soaked them
several days with penetrating oil, but had to use a lot of pressure and
some heat to get them off. They magnafluxed ok afterwards. There have
been a total of about eleven days on the track since then. I believe
I'll be inspecting them frequently from now on.
Larry
Catpusher@aol.com wrote:
> You have learned how the TR3A\B\4 rear hubs normally fail.
> The cause is usually a big thump or two into another object(s)
> or using the wrong method to remove the hub from the half shaft.
> Age and rust do not help.
>
> Visual inspection starting in the grease bleed hole and going around
> the hub
> where the inner surface of the brake drum sits will give a several
> race notice
> of failure running full E Production BHP and racing slicks. Use good
> light.
>
> I polish the radius with cratex, and radius the hole.
>
> I also lap the hub to the half shaft, and use selective hub nuts to
> obtain the upper limit
> on hub torque, which should be rechecked frequently.
>
> Hardy
> --------------------------------------------
> From: Larry Young <cartravel@pobox.com>
>
>> Subject: Re: TR3 from Hell - hub failure
>>
>> I pulled the left axle this morning and found the hub flange
>> disconnected from the main part of the hub. Luckily, the break is
>> tappered, so the wheel didn't come off. I had the hubs and axles
>> magnafluxed in February. At the time, I wondered how much security
>> magnafluxing provides. Maybe they crack on one lap and break on the
>> next.
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