Larry,
I understand your desire to run the setup you have now,
however, considering the considerable increase in power
you've provided the car I think you might want to reconsider
the use of my southwick axle. As Jeff Snook writes below,
get rid of the stock axles..!
I had a chat with Ed Barnard this morning and he feels he
can get my axle built and ready for you to use for Mosport.
I can deliver the axle to him this weekend when we pickup
our spitfire motor. Give me a call if you get a chance and lets
talk about this.
Try the work number first and the cell second.
870-540-2253 (work)
501-766-5950 (cell)
Brad
On 3 Jun 2003 at 8:24, Jeff Snook wrote:
> Larry,
>
> The correct way to remove the hub is to remove the original axle/hub
> assembly and .......
>
> THROW THEM AWAY!
>
> Take some advise from someone who wrecked his car because of an axle/hub
> failure. We were inspecting and magnafluxing every other weekend on my
> TR3. One still broke, lost the wheel, and I got to test the roll bar.
>
> Buy the Southwick and be done with it! The cost is a lot less than
> rebuilding the car!
>
> Jeff Snook
> http://www.snooksdreamcars.com
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Larry Young" <cartravel@pobox.com>
> To: <Catpusher@aol.com>
> Cc: <fot@autox.team.net>
> Sent: Monday, June 02, 2003 8:37 PM
> Subject: Re: TR3 from Hell - hub failure
>
>
> > And what is the correct way to remove the hub? I've heard a lot about
> > axles breaking, but not much about hubs. That's why I took four of them
> > apart and had them magnafluxed. They were all tough. I soaked them
> > several days with penetrating oil, but had to use a lot of pressure and
> > some heat to get them off. They magnafluxed ok afterwards. There have
> > been a total of about eleven days on the track since then. I believe
> > I'll be inspecting them frequently from now on. Larry
> >
> > Catpusher@aol.com wrote:
> >
> > > You have learned how the TR3A\B\4 rear hubs normally fail.
> > > The cause is usually a big thump or two into another object(s)
> > > or using the wrong method to remove the hub from the half shaft.
> > > Age and rust do not help.
> > >
> > > Visual inspection starting in the grease bleed hole and going around
> > > the hub where the inner surface of the brake drum sits will give a
> > > several race notice of failure running full E Production BHP and
> > > racing slicks. Use good light.
> > >
> > > I polish the radius with cratex, and radius the hole.
> > >
> > > I also lap the hub to the half shaft, and use selective hub nuts to
> > > obtain the upper limit on hub torque, which should be rechecked
> > > frequently.
> > >
> > > Hardy
> > > --------------------------------------------
> > > From: Larry Young <cartravel@pobox.com>
> > >
> > >> Subject: Re: TR3 from Hell - hub failure
> > >>
> > >> I pulled the left axle this morning and found the hub flange
> > >> disconnected from the main part of the hub. Luckily, the break is
> > >> tappered, so the wheel didn't come off. I had the hubs and axles
> > >> magnafluxed in February. At the time, I wondered how much security
> > >> magnafluxing provides. Maybe they crack on one lap and break on the
> > >> next.
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