Try Moroso wheel studs. They may have 4" long by 1/2". Attached is a link for
studs. I see a stud on the list that is 4 11/32" long but may not work. Item
# 46140. I bought studs for the ITB Alfa from this guy, but only 3" long.
Grade 8 bolts can work, just drop a tack weld on the back to prevent the stud
from turning. Have you considered different wheel offsets? You may be able to
achieve your maximum track with a slightly different offset. Kosei make wheels
with different offsets and come as a blank. You would have to have the stud
holes drilled out by a machine shop. You have to ask for the blanks as they
Why did you choose to run a flex pipe thru the chassis? Why not a straight
pipe? My father welded a 3" pipe thru the cross member. You knew my father,
did he have too many Black Label Beers when he did this? Or is the flex pipe a
modern design that works better?
----- Original Message -----
Date: Thursday, December 2, 2004 1:05 am
Subject: Triumph Related, Second Science Project.
> After I removed the bent TR-4 Axle Housing from my TR-3 this past
> (from last year's crash), and welding up gears and installing
> another axle
> housing; I started taking track measurements again. Both the
> front and the back were
> 0.6 of an inch short of my allowable track. I figured that I can
> another 1/4" spacer plate behind all four wheels. I will then be
> only 0.1 of an
> inch short front and back.
> This plan worked very well on the back of the car with three inch
> long 7/16"
> wheel studs. There are (what they call) three inch long 1/2"
> wheel studs on
> the front of the car, which are not threaded clear to the end of
> the studs. By
> the time they pass through the fat Ken G. aluminum hubs and
> another one inch
> spacer on both sides of the car, the additional quarter inch
> spacers will
> cause only one half of the lug nut threads to catch the wheel stud
> Does anyone know a source of 1/2" wheel studs longer than 3"? I
> have heard
> that Grade-8 bolts can be used in place of wheel studs, but could
> I be missing
> something? Do they also have to have gone through a special
> hardening process
> so that they do not stretch, as outlined in Kas's flywheel bolt
> seminar? Of
> course you run into other problems, such as no knurl to prevent
> the studs from
> turning in the hubs.
> My season turned out a little better this past year. After
> shearing off
> flywheel bolts and tearing up a Tilton flywheel this past spring,
> I managed to run
> all races and all practice sessions for two double regionals and
> the final
> Great Pumpkin Race at Nelson Ledges. Much to my surprise, the car
> is still
> running at the end of the season, which is very unusual. Maybe
> some of the
> Greg/Ken trinkets are paying off. Of course, I have been afraid
> to wind the engine
> up extremely high as of yet.
> I followed Jack Wheeler's recommendations of installing two 3/4"
> dial pins
> and used locking tabs for the flywheel bolts. Maybe tying the
> flywheel bolts
> together also provides a little more strength.
> I even managed to win the EP Nelson Ledges Kryder Regional
> Championship this
> year -- through default. One guy had more points than I did, but
> he did not
> have the five required events for the trophy. Everybody else broke.