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Re: Triumph Related, Second Science Project.

Subject: Re: Triumph Related, Second Science Project.
Date: Thu, 02 Dec 2004 12:27:50 -0500
Hi Bill,

Try Moroso wheel studs.  They may have 4" long by 1/2".  Attached is a link for 
studs.  I see a stud on the list that is 4 11/32" long but may not work.  Item 
# 46140. I bought studs for the ITB Alfa from this guy,  but only 3" long.  
Grade 8 bolts can work, just drop a tack weld on the back to prevent the stud 
from turning.  Have you considered different wheel offsets?  You may be able to 
achieve your maximum track with a slightly different offset.  Kosei make wheels 
with different offsets and come as a blank.  You would have to have the stud 
holes drilled out by a machine shop.  You have to ask for the blanks as they 
don't advertise.

Why did you choose to run a flex pipe thru the chassis?  Why not a straight 
pipe?  My father welded a 3" pipe thru the cross member.  You knew my father, 
did he have too many Black Label Beers when he did this?  Or is the flex pipe a 
modern design that works better?

Todd Redmond

----- Original Message -----
Date: Thursday, December 2, 2004 1:05 am
Subject: Triumph Related, Second Science Project.

> After I removed the bent TR-4 Axle Housing from my TR-3 this past 
> spring 
> (from last year's crash), and welding up gears and installing 
> another axle 
> housing; I started taking track measurements again.  Both the 
> front and the back were 
> 0.6 of an inch short of my allowable track.  I figured that I can 
> stack 
> another 1/4" spacer plate behind all four wheels.  I will then be 
> only 0.1 of an 
> inch short front and back.
> This plan worked very well on the back of the car with three inch 
> long 7/16" 
> wheel studs.  There are (what they call) three inch long 1/2" 
> wheel studs on 
> the front of the car, which are not threaded clear to the end of 
> the studs.  By 
> the time they pass through the fat Ken G. aluminum hubs and 
> another one inch 
> spacer on both sides of the car, the additional quarter inch 
> spacers will 
> cause only one half of the lug nut threads to catch the wheel stud 
> threads.
> Does anyone know a source of 1/2" wheel studs longer than 3"?  I 
> have heard 
> that Grade-8 bolts can be used in place of wheel studs, but could 
> I be missing 
> something?  Do they also have to have gone through a special 
> hardening process 
> so that they do not stretch, as outlined in Kas's flywheel bolt 
> seminar?  Of 
> course you run into other problems, such as no knurl to prevent 
> the studs from 
> turning in the hubs.  
> My season turned out a little better this past year.  After 
> shearing off 
> flywheel bolts and tearing up a Tilton flywheel this past spring, 
> I managed to run 
> all races and all practice sessions for two double regionals and 
> the final 
> Great Pumpkin Race at Nelson Ledges.  Much to my surprise, the car 
> is still 
> running at the end of the season, which is very unusual.  Maybe 
> some of the 
> Greg/Ken trinkets are paying off.  Of course, I have been afraid 
> to wind the engine 
> up extremely high as of yet.
> I followed Jack Wheeler's recommendations of installing two 3/4" 
> dial pins 
> and used locking tabs for the flywheel bolts.  Maybe tying the 
> flywheel bolts 
> together also provides a little more strength.
> I even managed to win the EP Nelson Ledges Kryder Regional 
> Championship this 
> year -- through default.  One guy had more points than I did, but 
> he did not 
> have the five required events for the trophy.  Everybody else broke.

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