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Re: Triumph Related, Second Science Project.

To: WEmery7451@aol.com
Subject: Re: Triumph Related, Second Science Project.
From: "Joe Boruch" <jaboruch@netzero.net>
Date: Fri, 3 Dec 2004 04:53:09 GMT
Bill, congratulations on the Championship win.  Anyway that you can get it, is 
still a win.  Nice seeing a TR3 still winning an EP Championship.

I have 1.25" spacers at the front of my TR3.  The spacers bolt onto the hubs 
with the studs that come thru the back of the hub.  The spacers have their own 
studs that the wheels mount onto.  This eliminates the need for extra long 
studs.  Moroso and ARP make long studs, but I don't know the specs on them.  
Joe(B)

-- WEmery7451@aol.com wrote:
After I removed the bent TR-4 Axle Housing from my TR-3 this past spring 
(from last year's crash), and welding up gears and installing another axle 
housing; I started taking track measurements again.  Both the front and the 
back were 
0.6 of an inch short of my allowable track.  I figured that I can stack 
another 1/4" spacer plate behind all four wheels.  I will then be only 0.1 of 
an 
inch short front and back.

This plan worked very well on the back of the car with three inch long 7/16" 
wheel studs.  There are (what they call) three inch long 1/2" wheel studs on 
the front of the car, which are not threaded clear to the end of the studs.  By 
the time they pass through the fat Ken G. aluminum hubs and another one inch 
spacer on both sides of the car, the additional quarter inch spacers will 
cause only one half of the lug nut threads to catch the wheel stud threads.

Does anyone know a source of 1/2" wheel studs longer than 3"?  I have heard 
that Grade-8 bolts can be used in place of wheel studs, but could I be missing 
something?  Do they also have to have gone through a special hardening process 
so that they do not stretch, as outlined in Kas's flywheel bolt seminar?  Of 
course you run into other problems, such as no knurl to prevent the studs from 
turning in the hubs.  

My season turned out a little better this past year.  After shearing off 
flywheel bolts and tearing up a Tilton flywheel this past spring, I managed to 
run 
all races and all practice sessions for two double regionals and the final 
Great Pumpkin Race at Nelson Ledges.  Much to my surprise, the car is still 
running at the end of the season, which is very unusual.  Maybe some of the 
Greg/Ken trinkets are paying off.  Of course, I have been afraid to wind the 
engine 
up extremely high as of yet.

I followed Jack Wheeler's recommendations of installing two 3/4" dial pins 
and used locking tabs for the flywheel bolts.  Maybe tying the flywheel bolts 
together also provides a little more strength.

I even managed to win the EP Nelson Ledges Kryder Regional Championship this 
year -- through default.  One guy had more points than I did, but he did not 
have the five required events for the trophy.  Everybody else broke.


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