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Re: Dashpot Oil, OD, etc.

To: oldskooling@yahoo.com, FOT@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: Dashpot Oil, OD, etc.
From: N197TR4@cs.com
Date: Sun, 2 Oct 2005 23:11:08 EDT
Perhaps one goes looking for other variables, on the dyno, such as engine 
mounts.

Or it is the Stockholm Syndrome.  I have held my Strombergs captive since 
1969 and they have aligned themselves to my expectations.


> I found this in the FOT archives. Jack Wheeler wrote..
> "For what it's worth, I will give you my experience with a TR-4 full race
> engine.  Prior to 1985 I had used springs in the carbs (1 3/4 SU H6's) and
> automatic transmission fluid in the dashpots.  In 1985 we put the engine on
> a dyno and found horsepower improvements at top end by taking the springs
> out all together and running the dashpots dry.  I was initially concerned
> about driveability at speeds other than full RPM, but after the change, the
> car was quicker throughout the range, with no loss of performance at any
> RPM range.
> 
> Also when the carbs were set up by Dick Stockton, he drilled a 1/8" hole in
> the brass cap on the top of the dashpot, and cut the stem off that goes
> down into the dashpot with the damper on it.  I ran the car this way for 15
> years and never had any problems.
> 
> For those of you not familiar with me, this car won at the SCCA Runoffs in
> 1990, so was pretty quick with this setup."
> 
> Catpusher@aol.com wrote:
> I found my current cans of SAE 20 in an Ace HW in Florida, and use this in 
> street motors
> that call for this.
> 
> Dyno results for my TR3 87mm HC full race motor for both 1.75" and 2" SUs 
> had 
> wild
> SU piston flutter and power loss with minimum damper action; much better 
> results
> with SAE 20 oil, and the best with type F ATF & STD piston springs
> The motor power band is 5500 to 7200
> TR6/Spit (or RX7, HD 2 wheeler) results may differ.
> 
> BTW: the TR4A (TR3B Mk III) center pull set up is vastly superior to the 
> earlier set up.
> 
> I wonder what the SCCA rule book would think about an alum TR3/4 front 
> engine 
> plate?
> 
> I drilled mine full of holes, also for air flow; really bent a couple too 
> (safety strap?)
> 
> More than one MGB racer that tried that for the rear plate (real weight 
> savings) was called on it.
> 
> If you race with OD; I Highly recommend running a Safe, full time, pressure 
> gauge. Really!
> 
> For the A type, the lubrication oil only starts working once the accumulator 
> piston has made it to the blow-off drillings, so too high a set pressure is 
> not good.
> 
> I ran an interesting OD cooling system that even helped speeds in the ATA 
> bridge turn.
> 
> Hardy
> 
>         
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