Interesting. I've got an additional leaf in the rear spring, pretty
stiff front springs, and a big front roll bar. I'm very happy with
the handling, but got my butt kicked by the Peyote. I've never tried
much softer rear springs - it seemed counter-intuitive in trying to
get the understeer out of the car (at least when developing the setup
on Jack's car). Of course, stiffening the front makes the understeer
decrease - I've never figured that one out.
Back to the original question, I think the Ken Gillanders spring
locating kit goes along with (or includes?) a solid front bushing
that I believe is bronze or brass. I know it works well, and
eliminates the need for panhard bar / watts link.
- Tony Drews
At 02:04 AM 5/12/2006, Bill Babcock wrote:
>Whoa--Addition of a leaf? What prompts you to increase the spring rate? Is
>this what other guys are doing to TR3's, and if so, why? For what it's
>worth, I found that my TR3 handled better with a very soft rear end, I took
>out the two shortest springs. Peyote has the same setup.
>
>If nothing else, out race cars weigh a lot less than stockers.
>
>-----Original Message-----
>From: owner-fot@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-fot@autox.team.net] On Behalf
>Of Mark York
>Sent: Thursday, May 11, 2006 7:13 PM
>To: fot@autox.team.net
>Subject: [FOT] Rear spring bushings
>
>Amici
>
>I took the rear springs off the TR3 racer and have them in the shop for the
>addition of a leaf. Is there a better front mounting bushing available? The
>rear mounts are definitely not rubber, maybe urethane (nylatron or?) but the
>front appears to be a steel and rubber bushing. The owner of the spring shop
>said most of the racers he knew used aluminum but I thought someone posted a
>thread about a brass bushing? Do you install with anti-seize compound?
>
>Can someone lead me in the right direction?
>
>Thanks in advance
>
>Mark
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