Drain everything, pat in on the hood and wish it well. In the Spring, on first
fire up, run for ten or fifteen minutes, get it good and warm, then drain,
refill, and it's over with.
Never Be beaten by Equipment
Kas Kastner
----- Original Message -----
From: Gary Schneider
To: fot@autox.team.net
Sent: Wednesday, October 11, 2006 12:36 PM
Subject: Re: [FOT] winter storage
I just drain the system and try to blow it dry reasonably well. Most race
organizations require water only and you can't just get rid of the anti-freeze
smell in the spring. If you travel to races where you are not known, tech
inspectors like to hassle you over it. I used to use anti-freeze but just got
tired of the endless flushing.
With so little humidity in winter I would think the corrosion issue in a dry
block and rad must be small.
Gary Schneider
'62 wh EP TR4
----- Original Message ----
From: Jack W. Drews <vinttr4@geneseo.net>
To: fot@autox.team.net
Sent: Wednesday, October 11, 2006 6:19:16 AM
Subject: [FOT] winter storage
I have an aluminum radiator and a cast iron block, of course. Looking
at all the stuff that happens inside there over the winter, I suspect
that galvanic action is alive and well through the winter. In the
past few years, I've put antifreeze in it for freeze protection and
to prevent corrosion.
What's the collective wisdom -- is it better to fill it with anti
freeze or just drain it all?
uncle jack
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