Mike,
Some off us put a pressurized fill tank at the back of the block in the line
Jeff mentioned. We use a variety of radiators and some are mounted with the
fill cap lower than the head. The fill tank allows for eliminating air in
the system. In my case, with my eBay purchased Wizard aluminum radiator,
running over 6 grand resulted in pumping water past the 13lb cap on the
radiator. I use an 18 lb cap on the fill tank still have the 13 on the
radiator and I just pump a little out of the 18 lb cap every 20 minutes (in
Texas).
Bpb K
----- Original Message -----
From: "quicktr4" <quicktr4@comcast.net>
To: "Mike Mehl" <mike.mehl@yahoo.com>; "Triumph Friends of"
<fot@autox.team.net>
Sent: Saturday, October 17, 2009 11:12 AM
Subject: Re: [Fot] TR4 coolant plumbing help and ideas needed
> sounds like your getting close to having a race car .the line at the block
> at #4 goes to the wtr pump housing discharge it will need to be drilled
> and a fitting installed. this pumps cooler water into the back of the
> block.you may need more radiator than stock. Jeff
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Mike Mehl" <mike.mehl@yahoo.com>
> To: "Triumph Friends of" <fot@autox.team.net>
> Sent: Saturday, October 17, 2009 8:13 AM
> Subject: [Fot] TR4 coolant plumbing help and ideas needed
>
>
>>I got my engine back yesterday. While at the ABFM in Portland over Labor
>>day
>> I took a bunch of photo's and had conversations with a few of you
>> regarding
>> additional plumbing to get the back of the engine cooler. It is pretty
>> clear
>> that a line needs to come out where the heater port is and run back to
>> the
>> thermostat housing. I have photos showing a line coming from the drain
>> port
>> but I am not sure where to return that too. Also should I run a
>> thermostat.
>> I would really appriciate some ideas or even photos.
>>
>> On some other notes.
>> The fuel cell is mounted up and the doorbars and dash bar are just about
>> done.
>>
>> Thanks for the help.
>>
>> Mike Mehl
>> Tired of
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>>
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