On the suggestion to use heims joint, I can see that this principal could be
advantageous but not sure how it would be done practically in the application
of
tube shock conversion and the trailing arm. I can't quite see how to use
it on
either end. I would think that the larger shock mount holes and rubber
shock
mount bushing might have a similar affect to the heim joint. Jim
________________________________
From: Robert M. Lang <lang@isis.mit.edu>
To:
Jack Mc <LimeyV8@aol.com>
Cc: sherry robyn <sherryjimmy6116@att.net>;
"fot@autox.team.net"
<fot@autox.team.net>
Sent: Thu, February 14, 2013
12:23:57 PM
Subject: Re: [Fot] Series 80 Koni adjustment
Hi,
Just to be
clear, what Jack refers to is the fact that there are significant
bending
loads that can occur from both the normal motion of these telescopic
shocks
and supension bottoming that can occur because most of the tube shock
conversions eliminate the lower bump stop in some manor, or at the very least
change it. The point being that the SPRING (actually the wheel rate) limits
the
total weight transfer... so, in theory you can limit some of the bending
load to
the frame because of the shock. Note also that where the shock mounts
to the
trailing arm, there is an arcing motion, so this adds to the bending
loads. So,
if you can mount the shock at the trailing arm and the frame with
heims joints,
you should probably do so.
As a point of information, the Gp
44 TR6 used the stock shock location on the
trailing arm, albeit with
considerable reinforcement and the top was secured to
the roll cage. That
setup is rock-solid - so a telescoping shock can be used.
The key is where
you mount it.
Also, not mentioned to this point is the fact that "we" really
can't know the
condition of the frame in question and that would have
considerable bearing on
whether the setup will work or not.
If this was my
car, and I had no other options, I'd def. add "check rear upper
crossmember"
to the pre-event check for every event as this setup can result in
failure in
that area.
I'll also point out from experience that the trailing arms
themselves are prone
to cracking either at the shock mount or between where
the hub mounts and the
pivot points, so if you go really, really stiff on the
suspension, the trailing
arms are likely to fail.
On the other hand, you can
set up the suspension fairly soft like it came from
the factory... just don't
chuck the car around or you'll bottom the suspension
all the time and I'll
guarantee that stuff will break.
:-)
rml
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