fot
[Top] [All Lists]

[Fot] Dialing in more rear brakes

To: FOT <fot@autox.team.net>
Subject: [Fot] Dialing in more rear brakes
From: steve <colordog.1@earthlink.net>
Date: Sat, 26 Oct 2013 14:46:22 -0700 (GMT-07:00)
Delivered-to: mharc@autox.team.net
Delivered-to: fot@autox.team.net
Domainkey-signature: a=rsa-sha1; q=dns; c=nofws; s=dk20050327; d=earthlink.net; b=JhEuJ7dQJSmcYfoyUqr+e6vmecz2J1eq9Rc0Owpp4pNDTDKoGKQyfDgPGHEKIyMR; h=Message-ID:Date:From:Reply-To:To:Subject:Mime-Version:Content-Type:Content-Transfer-Encoding:X-Mailer:X-ELNK-Trace:X-Originating-IP;
Friends,

I've recently added dual-circuit brakes with a Tilton balance bar assembly to 
my TR3 and I can't seem to get enough rear brakes. I'm looking for some advice.

Here's what I have done so far:

Installed balance bar with front and rear Master Cyl's 2.5" apart.  The 
pushrods are parallel to each other.  Both Master Cyl's were .750  I'm not 
running any residual pressure valves.

The pedal felt like a brick so I switched to two .625 MC's.  The pedal feel was 
much better but still, even with the adjustment to full rear, the rears were 
barely starting to drag when the fronts were biting.

I switched the rear Cyl to .700 and, same thing.  The rears just start to hook 
up when the fronts can not be turned by hand.

Next, I switched the rear cyl to .750 and it feels the same.  All of my testing 
is up on jackstands in the garage.  I'm racing next weekend.

I've played with adjusting the pushrod lengths so that the balance bar is 
parallel during full braking as illustrated in the Tilton instruction sheet.

Overall, the brakes work well but I can't figure this one out on my own.

Any ideas?

~STEVE
_______________________________________________
fot@autox.team.net

http://www.fot-racing.com

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive


<Prev in Thread] Current Thread [Next in Thread>