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I clean followed by smearing top side with RTV. Does not leak but I may have=
gotten lucky.=20
> On Feb 21, 2015, at 8:50 PM, Duncan Charlton via Fot <fot@autox.team.net> w=
rote:
>=20
> Have you tried degreasing followed by green (penetrating grade) Loc-Tite?
>=20
> Ir how about expanding the ends with a hammer and a ball bearing slightly l=
arger than the bore of the tube?
> Duncan
> (Texas)
>=20
> Sent from my iPhone
>=20
>> On Feb 21, 2015, at 2:46 PM, Tony Drews via Fot <fot@autox.team.net> wrot=
e:
>>=20
>> I agree with Chris on this. Don't bother welding it, just run the seal t=
hat fits it. I am running that crankshaft in my race TR-4 and use the Lip S=
eal that fits it. If it leaks, it doesn't leak much - I have worse leaks el=
sewhere so it's a little hard to tell. Do drill the extra holes through the=
rear main parallel to the existing drain hole to allow more oil to drain ba=
ck from between the bearing and the seal.
>>=20
>> That reminds me - anyone have any great tips on getting the pushrod tubes=
in the head to not leak?
>>=20
>> Cheers, Tony Drews
>>=20
>> At 09:40 PM 2/20/2015, Dan via Fot wrote:
>>> 2/20=20
>>> Good Evening All
>>> I Am reaching out to all TR owners for your thoughts and advice concerni=
ng a decision I will soon need to confront.
>>>=20
>>> Several years ago I went in on a "pool purchase" led by Mordy D and have=
a beautiful billet steel Cower crank---built without the rear scroll and to=
the 2.50" dia. that was used at the time for the then new and improved "Lip=
Seal" I was planning on using.=20
>>>=20
>>> Fast forward to today and the really new Viton rear seal kit which I hav=
e purchased and would really like to use now that the engine is finally gett=
ing built. =20
>>>=20
>>> I am meeting with a couple of crankshaft specialists here in the Detroit=
Metro Area the first of the week to see if they think they can build up (wi=
th weld) the area that the scroll would have occupied and machine it back to=
match the stock crank configuration in order to use the Viton Seal. This l=
eads me to ask two questions:
>>> 1)Has anyone had this done or heard of it being done and if so any cauti=
ons or suggestions or lessons learned?
>>>=20
>>> 2)Has anyone tried to use the Viton Seal on a crank that has had the scr=
oll machined off and what has been the end result of this experiment, or wou=
ld it be better to just use the now old "lip seal" and tighten up the carrie=
r and lip seal and shorten the spring a bit to try and grip the 2.50 diamete=
r surface a bit closer.?
>>>=20
>>> Any thoughts, cautions, theories, etc any of you have or could share (ei=
ther via the list or privately) will be most appreciated. I have a lot of c=
ool things going into this motor build and really do not want to screw it up=
doing something I do not fully understand.
>>>=20
>>> Thanks,=20
>>> Dan Cronin
>>> adcronin@gmail.com
>>> _______________________________________________
>>> fot@autox.team.net
>>>=20
>>> http://www.fot-racing.com
>>>=20
>>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>>> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>>> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>>> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/tony@tonyd=
rews.com
>>=20
>> _______________________________________________
>> fot@autox.team.net
>>=20
>> http://www.fot-racing.com
>>=20
>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/duncan.char=
lton54@gmail.com
> _______________________________________________
> fot@autox.team.net
>=20
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>=20
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/ablake2@aust=
in.rr.com
>=20
>=20
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<html><head><meta http-equiv=3D"content-type" content=3D"text/html; charset=3D=
utf-8"></head><body dir=3D"auto"><div>I clean followed by smearing top side w=
ith RTV. Does not leak but I may have gotten lucky. <br><br><br></div><=
div><br>On Feb 21, 2015, at 8:50 PM, Duncan Charlton via Fot <<a href=3D"=
mailto:fot@autox.team.net";>fot@autox.team.net</a>> wrote:<br><br></div><b=
lockquote type=3D"cite"><div><meta http-equiv=3D"content-type" content=3D"te=
xt/html; charset=3Dutf-8"><div>Have you tried degreasing followed by green (=
penetrating grade) Loc-Tite?</div><div><br></div><div>Ir how about expanding=
the ends with a hammer and a ball bearing slightly larger than the bore of t=
he tube?</div><div>Duncan</div><div>(Texas)<br><br>Sent from my iPhone</div>=
<div><br>On Feb 21, 2015, at 2:46 PM, Tony Drews via Fot <<a href=3D"mail=
to:fot@autox.team.net">fot@autox.team.net</a>> wrote:<br><br></div><block=
quote type=3D"cite"><div>
I agree with Chris on this. Don't bother welding it, just run the
seal that fits it. I am running that crankshaft in my race TR-4 and
use the Lip Seal that fits it. If it leaks, it doesn't leak much -
I have worse leaks elsewhere so it's a little hard to tell. Do
drill the extra holes through the rear main parallel to the existing
drain hole to allow more oil to drain back from between the bearing and
the seal.<br><br>
That reminds me - anyone have any great tips on getting the pushrod tubes
in the head to not leak?<br><br>
Cheers, Tony Drews<br><br>
At 09:40 PM 2/20/2015, Dan via Fot wrote:<br>
<blockquote type=3D"cite" class=3D"cite" cite=3D""><font color=3D"#38571A">2=
/20</font>
<br>
<font color=3D"#38571A">Good Evening All<br>
I Am reaching out to all TR owners for your thoughts and advice
concerning a decision I will soon need to confront.<br><br>
Several years ago I went in on a "pool purchase" led by Mordy D
and have a beautiful billet steel Cower crank---built without the rear
scroll and to the 2.50" dia. that was used at the time for the then
new and improved "Lip Seal" I was planning on using.
<br><br>
Fast forward to today and the really new Viton rear seal kit which I have
purchased and would really like to use now that the engine is finally
getting built. <br><br>
I am meeting with a couple of crankshaft specialists here in the Detroit
Metro Area the first of the week to see if they think they can build up
(with weld) the area that the scroll would have occupied and machine it
back to match the stock crank configuration in order to use the Viton
Seal. This leads me to ask two questions:<br>
1)Has anyone had this done or heard of it being done and if so any
cautions or suggestions or lessons learned?<br><br>
2)Has anyone tried to use the Viton Seal on a crank that has had the
scroll machined off and what has been the end result of this experiment,
or would it be better to just use the now old "lip seal" and
tighten up the carrier and lip seal and shorten the spring a bit to try
and grip the 2.50 diameter surface a bit closer.?<br><br>
Any thoughts, cautions, theories, etc any of you have or could share
(either via the list or privately) will be most appreciated. I have
a lot of cool things going into this motor build and really do not want
to screw it up doing something I do not fully understand.<br><br>
Thanks, <br>
Dan Cronin<br>
<a href=3D"mailto:adcronin@gmail.com";>adcronin@gmail.com</a><br>
</font>_______________________________________________<br>
<a href=3D"mailto:fot@autox.team.net";>fot@autox.team.net</a><br><br>
<a href=3D"http://www.fot-racing.com/"; eudora=3D"autourl">
http://www.fot-racing.com</a><br><br>
Donate:
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</blockquote>
<br>
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