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Re: [Fot] Gearbox thoughts

To: "'FOT Triumph'" <fot@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Fot] Gearbox thoughts
From: "MadMarx" <tr4racing@googlemail.com>
Date: Fri, 16 Oct 2015 17:33:19 +0200
Delivered-to: mharc@autox.team.net
Delivered-to: fot@autox.team.net
References: <5801BEE0-C6F0-47EF-93A9-A06873200CF6@verizon.net> <20151016142333.GL6NQ.131716.root@cdptpa-web24>
Thread-index: AdEIIkf7q1VhgbabRCGmUicdIEmi0gABaC+w
I change oil every year on engine and gearbox, diff.

Cheers
Chris

-----Ursprüngliche Nachricht-----
Von: Fot [mailto:fot-bounces@autox.team.net] Im Auftrag von
rkramer3@austin.rr.com
Gesendet: Freitag, 16. Oktober 2015 16:24
An: Dean Tetterton; Steve Yott
Cc: 'FOT Triumph'
Betreff: Re: [Fot] Gearbox thoughts

I'm another guy that dumps a lot of oil. I've used VR1 dino oil in the
crankcase and EP90 GL4 in the tranny and diff for a long time and changed it
out almost every weekend or two. This works great with the hour or less
racing I have done. I get the EP90 from Car Quest and it is jumped all the
way up to $15.00 a gallon. I understand that the EP90 I is not recommended
for use in overdrives so be careful with that. The dino oil in the
Lemons/Chump/WRl endurance TR6 boiled and left after about 4 hours so that
car now runs synthetic.

I now have a car with synthetic oils and I have let them run longer between
changes.

Bob Kramer
rkramer3@austin.rr.com

---- Dean Tetterton <tr3a58@verizon.net> wrote: 
> Boy, Lots of good thoughts on this. Still lots of unknown's. Where are the
engineers, Ha!
> 
> First off Glen is right, one needs to change the gear oil to keep the 
> ground up piece's of metal to a minimum. Cheap to do and doesn't take 
> that long. I even run a second magnetic plug in the fill hole.
> Second could not agree with Steve more. Double the bearing area is a 
> good help. I have a question as to the TR4 press in bearing. Good in 
> it gives more bearing area with the small rollers but I feel it 
> suffers from oil flow. Is there any why to improve on that? I use them 
> a lot but would feel better if I could see a way to get more oil thru
them. I have pulled apart boxes where the rollers are packed with crud.
> Third with the helical cut gears, there is a bit of pressure applied 
> to the thrust washers as they try to push away from each other. Would the
needle bearings help with that? Who knows?
> Is it worth the expense? Guess the answer here is straight cut gears.
Yeah, a dog box...
> 
> Still lots of questions but nice to hear what other people think. We 
> need to get together with some cold one's and solve all these problems.
> 
> How about a T5?
> 
> Dean T
> Never stop improving the equipment.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> On Oct 15, 2015, at 1:49 PM, Steve Yott wrote:
> 
> > I have had the opportunity to rebuild many TR gearboxes and a 
> > handful of Stag boxes and would like to offer my opinion and that is 
> > what it is... my opinion.
> > 
> > The Stag box added a lot of complexity to the area of the laygear and
shaft.
> > The layshaft is different in that it has two outside dimensions that 
> > match up to the spacers for the needle bearings. Now you have needle 
> > bearings, spacers and thrust washers.  I am basically not a fan of 
> > this arrangement as there are many more parts to fail and the needle
bearings are known to fail.
> > Where the Stag laygear does benefit is from having two rear bearings!
> > 
> > The real problem occurs when excessive torque on the single rear 
> > bearing causes the bearing and or shaft to fail.  Once there is play 
> > in the bearing to shaft fit the laygear starts floating up, down and 
> > side to side which then causes non-parallel loads on the bronze 
> > thrust washers and they begin to fail.
> > 
> > I have bored a good number of laygears to install double rear 
> > bearings in the rear of the gear.  I do not use the "open cage" 
> > bearing as the TR6 uses but I use the TR4 type enclosed bearings.  I 
> > do this operation on all gearboxes I rebuild now because I am sold 
> > on this fix.  The bronze thrust washers will withstand the loads on 
> > them as long as they are square with each other and the laygear end 
> > float is properly set and I use no more than .006" of end float.
> > 
> > Just my opinion!
> > 
> > Steve Yott
> > 
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: Fot [mailto:fot-bounces@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Dean 
> > Tetterton
> > Sent: Thursday, October 15, 2015 9:20 AM
> > To: FOT Triumph
> > Subject: [Fot] Gearbox thoughts
> > 
> > Since we have been thinking about gearbox's. The Stag layshaft was 
> > changed by Triumph to try and make them last longer due to the 
> > additional torque of the V8. They added needle bearings in place of 
> > the brass thrust washers at each end and an additional bearing  in 
> > the lay gear at the end where 1st gear is. Has anybody tried this 
> > set up in a racing box? Does it help in the wearing of the layshaft?
> > 
> > The addition of needle bearings means that the spacing of the box 
> > inside where the lay gear rides is greater. The needle bearings 
> > being thicker than the thrust washers. This means that the Stag box is
different inside.
> > I have been able to make a tool that will cut the inside of a TR box 
> > to be the same as a Stag. I plan to build a box using the needle 
> > bearings. Don't at this time plan to put another bearing inside the 
> > lay gear. If I make the lay gear deeper inside, I am afraid it will 
> > not be hard enough for the bearings to ride inside.
> > 
> > Before doing all this, has any body gone down this road before. If 
> > so what has been the experience?
> > Also any body with thoughts chime in. Is it worth the effort?
> > 
> > Dean T.
> > 
> > _______________________________________________
> > fot@autox.team.net
> > 
> > http://www.fot-racing.com
> > 
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> > 
> > 
> 
> _______________________________________________
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> 
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