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[Fot] Starter Solenoid

Subject: [Fot] Starter Solenoid
From: ponobill at gmail.com (Bill Babcock)
Date: Sun, 26 Mar 2017 07:32:00 -0700
References: <15b06def0f3-1f72-2297e@webprd-a40.mail.aol.com> <20170325195257.8E81E123D57@relay.mailchannels.net> <34ACD167-5D75-4CB9-8612-AE501FCE3F46@att.net> <14547C63-5BCA-43C9-9ACC-94F3790F2F9F@ponostyle.com> <6E05C176-9F6C-445E-88DC-6F882DF0DEF1@gmail.com> <79B378A3-31F8-4E86-B041-E5F0F12562BB@gmail.com> <D6EE71F8-2B4D-4559-AFF3-14D38F044E62@gmail.com>
Ah, you?re thinking that the integrated solenoid makes the starter gear engage. 
no, it?s just a high-current relay?functionally identical to the separate 
solenoid the old Luca unit uses. I can?t think of a purpose to have a second 
solenoid?don?t know why they call that particular relay a Solenoid . The bendix 
engages by drag on a helical actuator. Purely mechanical in every starter I?ve 
ever seen. 


> On Mar 26, 2017, at 5:18 AM, Duncan Charlton via Fot <fot at autox.team.net> 
> wrote:
> 
> Your?re right ? what I meant to say was that I shorted from the terminal with 
> the incoming heavy lead to the small terminal that has the starter switch 
> lead on it.  That activates the solenoid rather than bypassing it, which 
> likely simply spins the starter motor and doesn?t move the bendix.
> 
> Duncan Charlton
> Elgin, Texas USA
> 
> 
> 
>> 
>> If you short across the big terminals you eliminate the integrated solenoid. 
>> 
>> I have seen people bypass the integrated solenoid and use an external one, 
>> but my experience with the gear reduction starters is that they fail in the 
>> connection to the field coil, and rarely anywhere else. 
>>> 
>>> Unless?  
>>> 
>>> We?ve had two cars that had starting problems that were cured by using a 
>>> second solenoid.  The actual problem with both was most likely due to a 
>>> voltage loss between the battery, the ignition switch and the starter 
>>> solenoid.  
>>> 
>>> The Ford solenoid requires very low voltage (something like 2 volts) to 
>>> engage, whereas the one on my (German) Opel 1900 and the one on the 1978 
>>> Datsun 280Z clearly required a lot more.  I could short across the big 
>>> terminals to get the car to start, so I knew the starter motor and the 
>>> integrated solenoid were both good.  
>>> 
>>> Duncan Charlton
>>> Elgin, Texas USA
>>> 
>>> 
>>> 
>>>> 
>>>> Are you guys not using the gear reduction starters? The built in solenoid 
>>>> in the starters is a very reliable part. If you?re using a solenoid to 
>>>> activate the solenoid, I think you have one too many. 
>>>> 
>>>> 
>>>>> 
>>>>> Napa auto parts has a part number ST51. 
>>>>> 
>>>>> We went with as an emergency repair to replace a broken Lucas at the 
>>>>> track on a Sunday. They were the only ones in the town open that had 
>>>>> anything. The counter person spent an hour researching what they had that 
>>>>> would work. It works. Very reliable. 
>>>>> 
>>>>> I think its actually for 60's era Ford trucks. The Tr4 does not seem to 
>>>>> mind or be insulted by it any way.
>>>>> 
>>>>> Good Luck, 
>>>>> 
>>>>> Paul
>>>>> 
>>>>> Sent from my iPhone
>>>>> 
>>>>> 
>>>>>> I replaced my Lucas unit (with button) with one from the local Farm and 
>>>>>> Fleet.  Has been dead reliable for 15 years.
>>>>>> 
>>>>>> Tony Drews
>>>>>> 
>>>>>> At 02:08 PM 3/25/2017, Bob Totten via Fot wrote:
>>>>>>> Group wisdom on Starter Solenoids for our Triumph's ? 
>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>> Who sells the better quality Lucas (?) units as my starting problem has 
>>>>>>> pointed to the solenoid is not functioning properly.  Would also be 
>>>>>>> interested in learning about any alternative brand that would be better 
>>>>>>> in the long run.  In 20 years of running my Spit my 5th unit is on the 
>>>>>>> fritz or is that the life span for these things?
>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>> Curious,
>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>> Bob T
>>>>>>> '64 Spit GT  autocrosser
>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>> PS  I have inspected and tested the starter, and had it tested at the 
>>>>>>> local Advance Auto Parts and it functions just fine(?).
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>> 
> 
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