These are the real deal, not like the ones from WorldWide Auto Parts. WWAP
shocks have an external line with a needle valve on it to adjust the flow
between chambers.
eBay item number:296190566346
Charly Mitchel
TR6 #44 (for sale)
https://racecarlocators.com/cars-for-sale/ols/products/1969-triumph-tr6---history-one-of-the-finest
On Wed 31/01/24 12:56 PM , Tony Sheach via Fot fot@autox.team.net sent:
> If anyone is interested, I have a pair of adjustable DAS10â??s
> with TR5 /6 arms on eBay uk right now. Rebuilt by Derek Stevson so
> ready to fit.
> Message me and we can agree a discounted price as I wonâ??t use
> them.
> Regards
> Tony
> Sent from my iPad
> On 31 Jan 2024, at 20:50, mark via Fot wrote:
>  Delrin is Dupont's trade name for Polyacetel homopolymer
> resin which is low friction material and has a "slippery" feel to it.
> I have a Aluminum/Delrin bushing set up in one of my cars, a Delrin
> sleeve is fit between the aluminum bushing ID and the bolt OD, the
> supplier recommended use of grease between the surfaces.
> Nylotron is a Polyamide 6 or 6/6 resin ("Nylon" is Dupont's trade
> name for Polyamide) which has molybdenum disulfide powder mixed into
> the resin when extruded/cast/molded and is supposed to allow use
> without lubrication.
> I cannot vouch for which material would be the better to use as
> I've not enough experience with either.
> Best Regards,
> Mark Snay
> On Wednesday, January 31, 2024 at 02:07:32 PM EST, Robert Lang
> via Fot wrote:
> Hi,
> Go with the Koni shocks in front. The SPAX shocks work well, but the
> gas leaks out and they become "just shocks" and without the gas, they
> can foam which effects the shock efficiency over the course of a
> session. Or plan to replace the Spax every two years, plus or minus.
> For the rears, unless you converted to a coil over setup and / or
> tie your shocks to your roll cage GET RID OF THE TUBE SHOCKS. I have
> seen a lot of problems with the conversion shock setups out there and
> you risk frame damage running with those shocks. I can write a lot on
> this topic, but unless you can verify the action of the bump stops AND
> secure the shocks via rod ends, I will guarantee frame structural
> failure over time.
> So - get a set of stock Armstrong lever shocks for the rear and get
> nosimport.com (worldwide autoparts in Madison, WI) to rebuild them as
> adjustable and you get both a workable, reliable setup and it will
> work without messing up your frame. Unless you do stupid things like I
> do and bottom the suspension and break the frame, but I digress. I've
> run the Armstong adjustables for a long time and they work great. With
> a little tuning, you can get rid of the rear squat when you tromp on
> it, Makes the car handle completely differently.
> Delrin is a trademark, I believe - the material is the same as
> Nylatron. You can verify by looking at the durometer ratings.
> Regards, Bob Lang
> On Wednesday, January 31, 2024 at 01:24:07 PM EST, Mark Cook via
> Fot wrote:
> Quick question (maybe?). I am replacing the existing Koni front
> adjustable shocks (PN 80-1784). Bushings are worn out as likely are
> the shocks. Same with the rear adjustable SPAX shocks on my â??69 TR6
> racecar. I am more familiar with Bilstein, Koni and MCS.
> Any preference? Spax and Gaz are unknown to me, but the external
> adjuster is appealing compared to having to remove the Koniâ??s every
> time I need to adjust the suspension.
> Using the â??while I am in thereâ?? approach, I will be replacing all
> the front/rear suspension bushings. Have purchased Nylatron bushings.
> Cannot find Delrin products for TR6.
> Thanks,
> Mark Cook _______________________________________________
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