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Speaking of Facet pumps, so many years ago I was a member of the MEMA =
Export managers division and had the opportunity to share stories with =
many of its members. The Export Manager of Bendix told me he had worked =
for a long time with BMC and Donald Healey to replace the SU-Pumps with =
the Facet Pump. He got the approval to be the new supplier of the =
Healey cars when a few months later the decision to cease production was =
made.=20
=20
Regards,
=20
Bob Begani
=20
From: Healeys <healeys-bounces@autox.team.net> On Behalf Of Kees =
Oudesluijs via Healeys
Sent: Monday, May 10, 2021 11:48 AM
To: richard mayor <boyracer466@gmail.com>
Cc: healeys <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Negative ground SU fuel pump question
=20
Richard,
Rebuilding SU-pumps is therapeutic and satisfying. I started years ago =
after I retired. I still discover new things about them and keep =
developing the technique and methods.
I always prefer to keep the 3-layer diaphragm as it is far superior to =
the later 2 or even single layer ones. As long as all three layers are =
intact, reasonably supple, not cracked and can be (very carefully) =
separated from each other without damage they are usually OK. When =
cleaned (brake cleaner) and dried I dust them with a little talcum =
powder to prevent them from sticking in the future and keep the rubber =
in good condition. In the past I used some rubber grease. I still have =
perfect original diaphragms from pumps that were fitted in the '50's. =
One thing which is important is to take care with the Bakelite bridge. =
Do not overtighten the fixing screws as the Bakelite is rather brittle =
and cracks easily. However the plus side is that Bakelite can be glued, =
and if bits are missing reconstructed, very well using araldite or any =
other suitable epoxy glue. Same for the cap. It will leave a very strong =
and lasting repair.
Points are usually fit for sanding the worst pitting followed by =
polishing them with flower paper. Old point may be preferable to new =
points, the old ones are probably a better quality. They hardly wear.
The main reason the SU-pumps are giving up is lack of use as electric =
corrosion between the points will stop them working. I have done more =
than 160.000miles in my first Jensen-Healey and never had one problem =
with the fuel pump. Even after I laid up the car for about 10 years it =
would still pump the fuel on my yearly start up of the engine. After =
that it was left to its own devices and when I took it out in 2008 to =
fit in my present J-H it failed! I took it apart, cleaned, inspected it, =
polished the points and rebuild it with all its original components bar =
the seals for fuel hose connectors. It has been working flawlessly ever =
since and that was needed was a cleaning of the points. Earlier I =
replaced the capacitor with a transil (bi-directional Zener diode), 1.5 =
KE18CA. I now keep the capacitor and fit the transil in parallel with =
it. It will decrease sparking tremendously.
In very old pumps single instead of double points are fitted and often =
no capacitor is fitted at all from the factory. When rebuilding these =
units I always fit a transil with or without a capacitor to protect the =
points.
If you want to carry a spare fuel pump, do not use an SU-pump. The =
points will corrode in the boot after some time and it will fail you =
when you need it. Better to get one of those $15 simple Facet fuel =
pumps. They are crude, make a lot of noise but will get you home.
Cheers,
Kees
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class=3DWordSection1><p class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'font-size:18.0pt;font-family:"Arial",sans-serif'>Speaking of =
Facet pumps, so many years ago I was a member of the MEMA Export =
managers division and had the opportunity to share stories with many of =
its members.=C2=A0 The Export Manager of Bendix told me he had worked =
for a long time with BMC and Donald Healey to replace the SU-Pumps with =
the Facet Pump.=C2=A0 He got the approval to be the new supplier of the =
Healey cars when a few months later the decision to cease production was =
made. <o:p></o:p></span></p><p class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'font-size:18.0pt;font-family:"Arial",sans-serif'><o:p> </o:=
p></span></p><p class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'font-size:18.0pt;font-family:"Arial",sans-serif'>Regards,<o:p></=
o:p></span></p><p class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'font-size:18.0pt;font-family:"Arial",sans-serif'><o:p> </o:=
p></span></p><p class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'font-size:18.0pt;font-family:"Arial",sans-serif'>Bob =
Begani<o:p></o:p></span></p><p class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'font-size:18.0pt;font-family:"Arial",sans-serif'><o:p> </o:=
p></span></p><div><div style=3D'border:none;border-top:solid #E1E1E1 =
1.0pt;padding:3.0pt 0in 0in 0in'><p class=3DMsoNormal><b>From:</b> =
Healeys <healeys-bounces@autox.team.net> <b>On Behalf Of </b>Kees =
Oudesluijs via Healeys<br><b>Sent:</b> Monday, May 10, 2021 11:48 =
AM<br><b>To:</b> richard mayor =
<boyracer466@gmail.com><br><b>Cc:</b> healeys =
<healeys@autox.team.net><br><b>Subject:</b> Re: [Healeys] Negative =
ground SU fuel pump question<o:p></o:p></p></div></div><p =
class=3DMsoNormal><o:p> </o:p></p><p =
class=3DMsoNormal>Richard,<br><br>Rebuilding SU-pumps is therapeutic and =
satisfying. I started years ago after I retired. I still discover new =
things about them and keep developing the technique and methods.<br>I =
always prefer to keep the 3-layer diaphragm as it is far superior to the =
later 2 or even single layer ones. As long as all three layers are =
intact, reasonably supple, not cracked and can be (very carefully) =
separated from each other without damage they are usually OK. When =
cleaned (brake cleaner) and dried I dust them with a little talcum =
powder to prevent them from sticking in the future and keep the rubber =
in good condition. In the past I used some rubber grease. I still have =
perfect original diaphragms from pumps that were fitted in the '50's. =
One thing which is important is to take care with the Bakelite bridge. =
Do not overtighten the fixing screws as the Bakelite is rather brittle =
and cracks easily. However the plus side is that Bakelite can be glued, =
and if bits are missing reconstructed, very well using araldite or any =
other suitable epoxy glue. Same for the cap. It will leave a very strong =
and lasting repair.<br>Points are usually fit for sanding the worst =
pitting followed by polishing them with flower paper. Old point may be =
preferable to new points, the old ones are probably a better quality. =
They hardly wear.<br>The main reason the SU-pumps are giving up is lack =
of use as electric corrosion between the points will stop them working. =
I have done more than 160.000miles in my first Jensen-Healey and never =
had one problem with the fuel pump. Even after I laid up the car for =
about 10 years it would still pump the fuel on my yearly start up of the =
engine. After that it was left to its own devices and when I took it out =
in 2008 to fit in my present J-H it failed! I took it apart, cleaned, =
inspected it, polished the points and rebuild it with all its original =
components bar the seals for fuel hose connectors. It has been working =
flawlessly ever since and that was needed was a cleaning of the points. =
Earlier I replaced the capacitor with a transil (bi-directional Zener =
diode), 1.5 KE18CA. I now keep the capacitor and fit the transil in =
parallel with it. It will decrease sparking tremendously.<br>In very old =
pumps single instead of double points are fitted and often no capacitor =
is fitted at all from the factory. When rebuilding these units I always =
fit a transil with or without a capacitor to protect the points.<br>If =
you want to carry a spare fuel pump, do not use an SU-pump. The points =
will corrode in the boot after some time and it will fail you when you =
need it. Better to get one of those $15 simple Facet fuel pumps. They =
are crude, make a lot of noise but will get you =
home.<br>Cheers,<br>Kees<o:p></o:p></p></div></body></html>
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