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So much attention seems to be devoted to issues of vapor lock/heat soaking,
I thought I would post an absolutely foolproof--if a bit radical-- solution
to this pervasive problem.
The car in question is NOT my 1954 100 Le Mans but rather my first race
car--a 1622 MGA-powered Elva Courier equipped with two HS6 SU's. On hot
days it was often impossible to get the car to restart once the engine got
hot--which often happens when, for example, there were delays on the
starting grid and it became necessary to shut down due to threatened
overheating OR during restarts after an all-in black flag etc.
In such situations when the engine was "heat soaked" no amount of cranking
would work until the engine cooled down and on a few occasions I actually
missed getting off the grid--quite frustrating to sit there watching the
race proceed without me.
The solution I came up with was to provide a simple positive way of getting
relatively cool air into the combustion chamber. The intake manifold had a
balance tube in which there was a threaded. plugged port. I inserted a
brass 90 degree ell into the port and ran a fuel-proof hose (1/2" ID) back
through the firewall to a brass two-way ball valve with a lever handle
which I mounted through the dashboard near the steering wheel so that the
handle was easily accessed simply by reaching under the dash.
When it came time to start/restart a hot engine I would crack the valve
open with one hand and push the start button with the other. Invariably,
despite high ambient or engine temps the car would fire off immediately and
I would close the valve immediately as it almost seemed like the car had
received a straight injection of starting ether and my intention was to
replace the manual valve with a spring-loaded version that would
immediately close when released.
I'll admit this might be an extreme solution but if one lives in a very hot
high temp/humidity climate and is continually plagued by what we call vapor
lock or heat soaking (luckily not a problem from which my 100 suffers) it
is worth exploring.
Best--Michael Oritt
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<div dir=3D"ltr"><div class=3D"gmail_default" style=3D"color:#3333ff">So mu=
ch attention seems to be devoted to issues of vapor lock/heat soaking, I th=
ought I would post an absolutely foolproof--if a bit radical-- solution to =
this pervasive problem.=C2=A0=C2=A0</div><div class=3D"gmail_default" style=
=3D"color:#3333ff"><br></div><div class=3D"gmail_default" style=3D"color:#3=
333ff">The car in question is NOT my 1954 100 Le Mans but rather my first r=
ace car--a 1622 MGA-powered Elva Courier equipped with two HS6 SU's.=C2=
=A0 On hot days it was often impossible to get the car to restart once the =
engine=C2=A0got hot--which often happens when, for example, there were dela=
ys on the starting grid and it became necessary to shut down due to threate=
ned overheating OR during restarts after an all-in black flag etc.=C2=A0</d=
iv><div class=3D"gmail_default" style=3D"color:#3333ff"><br></div><div clas=
s=3D"gmail_default"><font color=3D"#3333ff">In such situations when the eng=
ine was "heat soaked" no amount of cranking would work until the =
engine cooled down=C2=A0</font><font color=3D"#0000ff">and on a few occasio=
ns I actually missed getting off the grid--quite frustrating to sit there w=
atching the race proceed without me.</font></div><div class=3D"gmail_defaul=
t"><font color=3D"#0000ff"><br></font></div><div class=3D"gmail_default"><f=
ont color=3D"#0000ff">The solution I came up with was to provide a simple=
=C2=A0positive way of getting relatively cool air into the combustion chamb=
er.=C2=A0 The intake manifold had a balance tube in which there was a threa=
ded. plugged port.=C2=A0 I inserted a brass 90 degree ell into the port and=
ran a fuel-proof hose (1/2" ID) back through the firewall to a brass =
two-way ball valve with a lever handle which I mounted through the dashboar=
d near the steering wheel so that the handle was easily accessed simply by =
reaching under the dash.=C2=A0=C2=A0</font></div><div class=3D"gmail_defaul=
t"><font color=3D"#0000ff"><br></font></div><div class=3D"gmail_default"><f=
ont color=3D"#0000ff">When it came time to start/restart a hot engine I wou=
ld crack the valve open with one hand and push the start button with the ot=
her.=C2=A0 Invariably, despite high ambient or engine temps the car would f=
ire off immediately and I would close the valve immediately as it almost se=
emed like the car had received a straight injection of starting ether and m=
y intention was to replace the manual valve with a spring-loaded version th=
at would immediately close when released.</font></div><div class=3D"gmail_d=
efault"><font color=3D"#0000ff"><br></font></div><div class=3D"gmail_defaul=
t"><font color=3D"#0000ff">I'll admit this might be an extreme solution=
but if one lives in a very hot high temp/humidity climate and is continual=
ly plagued by what we call vapor lock or heat soaking (luckily not a proble=
m from which my 100 suffers) it is worth exploring.=C2=A0=C2=A0</font></div=
><div class=3D"gmail_default"><font color=3D"#0000ff"><br></font></div><div=
class=3D"gmail_default"><font color=3D"#0000ff">Best--Michael Oritt</font>=
</div><div class=3D"gmail_default"><font color=3D"#0000ff">=C2=A0 =C2=A0</f=
ont></div><div class=3D"gmail_default" style=3D"color:#3333ff"><br></div><d=
iv class=3D"gmail_default" style=3D"color:#3333ff"><br></div><div class=3D"=
gmail_default" style=3D"color:#3333ff"><br></div></div>
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