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Re: [Healeys] Rust Protection Fluids

To: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Rust Protection Fluids
From: Bob Spidell <bspidell@comcast.net>
Date: Tue, 8 Jun 2021 04:41:03 -0700
Delivered-to: mharc@autox.team.net
Delivered-to: healeys@autox.team.net
References: <000001d75c58$eb55b8a0$c20129e0$@alexarevel.plus.com> <f2f12dcb-dd68-5511-0854-d0f46b4fc639@comcast.net>
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Followup (it's 4:30am here and my brain isn't awake yet):

I was recommended a 'one spray does it all' product by a gun shop. I 
don't remember the product's name--it's at my shop--but, when searching 
for it I came across this:

https://mil-comm.com/gun-cleaning/the-problem-with-clp-type-gun-lubricants/

Since you're doing a restoration, it's probably better to use a 
protectant (only).

Bob



On 6/8/2021 4:33 AM, Bob Spidell wrote:
> I've used LPS3 on exposed metal on my BJ8 and the metal has stayed 
> shiny (and I put a lot of miles on that car, some in rain):
>
> https://www.amazon.com/LPS-Premier-Rust-Inhibitor-Aerosol/dp/B000SKWQQS
>
> Its description says color is 'brown,' but it's a very light brown. I 
> don't know of any product that is colorless and, to be effective, I 
> think they all leave a thin, waxy film.
>
> FWIW, I tried one of the 'best' (supposedly) 'bluing in a bottle' 
> products, and it didn't hold up; hopefully, you can find something 
> better. The original bluing process required harsh chemicals and, I 
> think, the application of heat.
>
> Bob
>
> On 6/8/2021 4:24 AM, simon.lachlan@alexarevel.plus.com wrote:
>>
>> Hi,
>>
>> Not specifically a Healey query but we all know about rust?.
>>
>> So, I?m restoring an old pistol. (We?ll get one thing straight 
>> first?.I?m no Wyatt Earp. This thing is a nice old .177 air pistol. A 
>> Webley & Scott Mk1. My wife?s father?s. About a hundred years old. 
>> Still works well.)
>>
>> Thus far, I?ve disassembled, removed the old bluing and any rust. 
>> I?ll reblue it per instructions from the net and from the bottle of 
>> blue. No problems so far. Actually, the only issue is the difficulty 
>> in obtaining parts.
>>
>> I?m advised by the bluing manufacturer?s blurb on the bottle to 
>> finish off the whole process by ?Saturating metal in Barricade Rust 
>> Protection?. That stuff seems to be WD40 in all but name with the 
>> property that, perhaps, it leaves a more lasting film on the metal. 
>> But the manufacturer would tell one to do that, wouldn?t they?
>>
>> Nanny has taken away most of our firearms in the UK, so a lot of this 
>> type of stuff comes in from overseas. Typically the US. Anyone know 
>> anything about this stuff or similar???? Years ago, when playing with 
>> Her Majesty?s firearms, we used to keep little bottles of Jenolite 
>> something or other, but that seems to be unavailable now. Only their 
>> Rust Converter.
>>
>> I?ll probably just reblue it and wrap it up in an oily rag for 
>> another 20 years. (Just so long as my grandson doesn?t find it).
>>
>> Thanks,
>>
>> Simon
>>
>>
>
>
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    Followup (it's 4:30am here and my brain isn't awake yet):<br>
    <br>
    I was recommended a 'one spray does it all' product by a gun shop. I
    don't remember the product's name--it's at my shop--but, when
    searching for it I came across this:<br>
    <br>
<a class="moz-txt-link-freetext" 
href="https://mil-comm.com/gun-cleaning/the-problem-with-clp-type-gun-lubricants/";>https://mil-comm.com/gun-cleaning/the-problem-with-clp-type-gun-lubricants/</a><br>
    <br>
    Since you're doing a restoration, it's probably better to use a
    protectant (only).<br>
    <br>
    Bob<br>
    <br>
    <br>
    <br>
    <div class="moz-cite-prefix">On 6/8/2021 4:33 AM, Bob Spidell wrote:<br>
    </div>
    <blockquote type="cite"
      cite="mid:f2f12dcb-dd68-5511-0854-d0f46b4fc639@comcast.net">
      <meta http-equiv="Content-Type" content="text/html;
        charset=windows-1252">
      I've used LPS3 on exposed metal on my BJ8 and the metal has stayed
      shiny (and I put a lot of miles on that car, some in rain):<br>
      <br>
      <a class="moz-txt-link-freetext"
href="https://www.amazon.com/LPS-Premier-Rust-Inhibitor-Aerosol/dp/B000SKWQQS";
        
moz-do-not-send="true">https://www.amazon.com/LPS-Premier-Rust-Inhibitor-Aerosol/dp/B000SKWQQS</a><br>
      <br>
      Its description says color is 'brown,' but it's a very light
      brown. I don't know of any product that is colorless and, to be
      effective, I think they all leave a thin, waxy film.<br>
      <br>
      FWIW, I tried one of the 'best' (supposedly) 'bluing in a bottle'
      products, and it didn't hold up; hopefully, you can find something
      better. The original bluing process required harsh chemicals and,
      I think, the application of heat.<br>
      <br>
      Bob<br>
      <br>
      <div class="moz-cite-prefix">On 6/8/2021 4:24 AM, <a
          class="moz-txt-link-abbreviated"
          href="mailto:simon.lachlan@alexarevel.plus.com";
          moz-do-not-send="true">simon.lachlan@alexarevel.plus.com</a>
        wrote:<br>
      </div>
      <blockquote type="cite"
        cite="mid:000001d75c58$eb55b8a0$c20129e0$@alexarevel.plus.com">
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          <p class="MsoNormal">Hi,<o:p></o:p></p>
          <p class="MsoNormal">Not specifically a Healey query but we
            all know about rust?.<o:p></o:p></p>
          <p class="MsoNormal">So, I?m restoring an old pistol. (We?ll
            get one thing straight first?.I?m no Wyatt Earp. This thing
            is a nice old .177 air pistol. A Webley &amp; Scott Mk1. My
            wife?s father?s. About a hundred years old. Still works
            well.)<o:p></o:p></p>
          <p class="MsoNormal">Thus far, I?ve disassembled, removed the
            old bluing and any rust. I?ll reblue it per instructions
            from the net and from the bottle of blue. No problems so
            far. Actually, the only issue is the difficulty in obtaining
            parts.<o:p></o:p></p>
          <p class="MsoNormal">I?m advised by the bluing manufacturer?s
            blurb on the bottle to finish off the whole process by
            ?Saturating metal in Barricade Rust Protection?. That stuff
            seems to be WD40 in all but name with the property that,
            perhaps, it leaves a more lasting film on the metal. But the
            manufacturer would tell one to do that, wouldn?t they? 
<o:p></o:p></p>
          <p class="MsoNormal">Nanny has taken away most of our firearms
            in the UK, so a lot of this type of stuff comes in from
            overseas. Typically the US. Anyone know anything about this
            stuff or similar???? Years ago, when playing with Her
            Majesty?s firearms, we used to keep little bottles of
            Jenolite something or other, but that seems to be
            unavailable now. Only their Rust Converter.<o:p></o:p></p>
          <p class="MsoNormal">I?ll probably just reblue it and wrap it
            up in an oily rag for another 20 years. (Just so long as my
            grandson doesn?t find it).<o:p></o:p></p>
          <p class="MsoNormal">Thanks,<o:p></o:p></p>
          <p class="MsoNormal">Simon<o:p></o:p></p>
        </div>
        <br>
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      <br>
      <br>
      <fieldset class="mimeAttachmentHeader"></fieldset>
      <pre class="moz-quote-pre" 
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